Emma's First Christmas, In Her Words...

Can you believe that she put this on me?  I can't imagine being seen outside like this, of course.  I had to act quickly so I pretended to be impaired.  I walked sideways with my tail and my head down.  This got an immediate reaction and this stupid Christmas bow is history.  (I hope it doesn't show up again on the 25th...)

There are many things to do around here that aren't Christmas related. I've been keeping in shape with several dreadful forced marches per day.  I've added yoga to the routine and it seems to have made me much more "zen".  I almost forgot to chew up the chairs today I was so relaxed.

My favorite activity continues to be sleeping on the furniture, which I do about 20 hours per day.  They have really soft furniture and it washable so if I jump up and put dirty prints all over, they don't get too upset.  I try not to chew my bully sticks on the furniture, they might stain.  I'm learning manners even without that silly class they make me attend every week.  Basic Manners, ha!

Merry Christmas!
Love, Emma

Flying The Flag

I've seen several French flags over the last few days.  This one is wonderful. It is on a beach house on The Strand in Hermosa Beach, CA. 

The American flag is on the right (hard to see) and the French flag is on the left.  It makes me feel proud that Americans are showing their solidarity with France.  We all need to stick together at this time. 

I Don't Think The Pilgrims Were Gluten Free

I haven't been in the US for Thanksgiving since 2007.  Celebrating Thanksgiving in Paris is a combination of difficult and easy.   Ingredients like cranberries are becoming easier to find in local markets.   I used to go to the store called "Thanksgiving" in the Marais with my cart and stock up on cranberries, stuffing mix, pumpkin and evaporated milk every year.   It was a wonderful ritual. I ordered the turkey weeks in advance from the butcher and I always got a very nice, small "fermier" turkey. 

The beauty of Thanksgiving celebrated in Paris is that no one else is celebrating so the stores aren't crowded and everyone goes about their business on the day after Thanksgiving.  No Black Friday madness, it's just another day. 

This year I've already ordered the turkey from Bristol Farms.  It will be excellent but it won't be "fermier" even if I get one that is free-range, organic, and ate only GMO free food.  It will still have the fat body of an American turkey.  I will have to start planning my shopping around the holiday, leaving enough time and energy to get everything done. 

In Paris, I don't have to worry about the parking lot being full, there is no parking lot.  But in the US, everyone comes out at once and the lots are full.  My brain switches immediately to US standards as soon as I pass through US immigration and I strive to park in the closest parking spot possible.  No walking to and from the car for me when it is possible to park close to the store.

Two things are different here in the US.  I was in the gym yesterday when the well-meaning trainer was giving a lecture on not indulging during the holidays.  Not very French of him.   In France, people live for the holiday meals and relish them.  They can make up for it tomorrow (or yesterday) but the feast is to be savored.  I am in agreement with this and I will enjoy the traditional foods that we eat only once or twice a year.  The other thing that's different here is "gluten free".  In France, I'm starting to see some packages of food with starbursts saying "sans gluten" in the stores.   You would never hear someone talking about eating gluten free or requesting a gluten free meal.  It doesn't exist. 

Thanksgiving is laden with gluten.  Not sure if wheat was even a grain that was around during the first year in the New World.  Corn was around.  Is corn gluten free?  I'm not sure. 

French people love stuffed food. It's called "farce" and anything from meat and poultry to veggies are stuffed with a variety of ingredients.  A stuffed turkey is a once a year pleasure.  Yes, the stuffing is gluten-laden.  I can't even imagine what stuffing would be like without bread as a base.  And, I guess you can make gravy with something other than flour but I am not sure I could figure it out and perfect it in time for Thanksgiving.   People that are gluten free can avoid the gravy.  What about the pies?  Laden with gluten.

So, we've strayed from whatever the Pilgrims really ate during their first Thanksgiving but we have our traditions.  I will enjoy the holiday in the US. 

Shopping On Sunday

When we first came to Paris there were two things wrong here.  A cup of coffee was too small and all (or most of) the stores were closed on Sunday.

I learned to enjoy "un cafe" and now I drink a small amount of very high quality coffee.  Starbucks invaded Paris years ago. There are several within walking distance but I've never been inside a Paris Starbucks, no need to go.

The Sunday shopping is another story.  When we lived on rue de Seine, the Buci market was nearby and a Champion supermarket plus the outdoor vendors were right there every Sunday morning until about noon or 1 PM.  Yes, it was really crowded but I didn't have to worry about not having something for dinner.  The stores and boutiques were all closed. 

We now live in a neighborhood that is very strict, there is one small bodega that is open on Sunday.  There used to be two but one turned into part of the Bread and Roses upscale restaurant, gallery and market and it is closed on Sundays and every imaginable holiday.

While I've learned to do other things on Sunday and not plan on shopping, the ability to shop still seems important to me.  I understand that the French get together with family and friends on Sunday.  I still want the ability to shop. 

Fairly new is a law that opens several parts of the city to shopping by deeming them "touristic".  Tourists may only have one day in Paris to shop and if all the stores are closed, opportunities for revenue will be missed.  The Champs-Elysee has shops that are open but I would never go there.  Too difficult, too easy to get pick-pocketed, too many tourists.

But a new shopping area in the 15th has been built near the Seine.  It was a shopping center in the past, but it was a run-down area that was a bit far from any metro or bus.  The only time I went was when I had to go to Darty.  Darty moved when they redeveloped the area and I stopped going entirely.   Now I have a new shopping destination on Sunday, Beaugrenelle.   I think it has over 100 shops, most of which are open all day today. 

Travel With The BT

This Summer, Emma has traveled five times.  They were all car trips.  She stayed at the Park Hyatt Aviara, The Homewood Suites, the Four Seasons Residence Club and now she's added a trip to Cambria and Ventana in Big Sur.  She didn't complain too much about the long drive back from Big Sur.  It took all day on Saturday. 

Now, we have our big trip coming up.  Our flight to Paris.  Emma likes to travel in style, as you can see from our Summer's adventures.  So, we just upgraded to Business Class which will give her a little bit more leg room.  She will also get to visit the Air France lounge both in LA and Paris, lucky girl. 

She's been groomed and she has a new crate with wheels for secure travel.  I think she's ready.  My purse is now filled with treats and poop bags, both of which, I'm sure will be needed at some point.  I've got her matching leashes and collars.   She'll have to wear a harnass on the plane so that she is more secure.  But once we're in Paris, she can revert to her purple collar and leash, they look very good on her.

I also have a folding cup for water for her and a small blanket.  I think we're ready to travel with the BT.  Her pet passport is even up to date.

The USDA

To take an American dog to France, you have to have your dog examined by a USDA accredited vet and then take the (extensive) paperwork to the USDA for approval.  You have to do this not more than 10 days before your arrival in France.  So, if you weren't already busy enough, this adds some excitement to the trip preparation activity.

The vet went smoothly.  They have a "concierge" who is knowledgeable about the paperwork and completed it (for a $$$ price) for me.  I had to be aware of what Emma needed to have done in advance but it wasn't too difficult.  I got the paperwork yesterday but we didn't finish our appointment until after noon and the USDA is only open from 7:30 to 11 AM.  So, I got up earlier than usual in order to get to the USDA when it opened. 

When I arrived, they had a "take a number" machine.  Having been in France for a long time and also being a Cost Co member, I am familiar with these machines.  I got #23 and it was 7:31 AM so I guess everyone has the same idea about arriving on time or early for this activity. 

I took a seat and looked around.  It seemed that the majority of the others in the waiting room were professional animal movers.  They talked and joked among themselves, telling stories about the Jack Russell that got away or the cat with the claws.  At 7:30, this isn't funny at all. 

They finally got to #23 and I went to the window.  Bullet-proof glass, like someone might try to rob (?) the USDA or kill someone.  I'm not sure which.  It was relatively serene.  The woman behind the glass enclosure took my paperwork, my credit card and my driver's license and then announced to the group that she was going on her coffee break so she'd be gone for awhile.  Perfect!  Maybe that's why the need the bullet-proof glass.  I was salivating for a cup of coffee. 

The time passed.  I ended up sitting next to another woman who was relocating with her dog to France.  We chatted.  Her name was called, she got her paperwork and left.  I waited.  Eventually a man called me up to the window, handed me the most official looking set of papers that I've ever seen.  He was a USDA vet.  He answered a few of my questions and off I went with Emma's French paperwork.  

The WICE French English Conversation Groups will re-start in September.

The WICE French English Conversation Groups will re-start in September.  

Note that the Tuesday groups will meet at the Bistrot 15eme on September 15 and 29.  The annual WICE Open House will be held on September 22.  You can participate in a conversation group during the event.

Tuesday groups

The Tuesday groups will start on October 6, 2015

Time: 2:00 to 3:00 informal conversations
        3:00 to 4:30 in groups, 45 min. in each language
Place:69, rue Violet, Paris 75015   Metro:  Commerce, Bus:  70 or 88

Friday groups

The Friday groups will start on September 18, 2015

Time: 4 pm - 5:30 pm
Place:  14, rue de Surene, Paris 75008

Metro:   Madeleine

Thursday groups

Time: 6:30 pm - 8:00 pm

Place:  WICE office

Groups will meet during school holidays. 

Emma Likes This Quote -- Words To Live By

Emma likes these words which we found on the back of a dog treat package:

LIVE SIMPLY

SPEAK KINDLY

LOVE UNCONDITIONALLY

If you think about it, we could all be better friends and caretakers if our daily philosophy matched our dogs'.

Appreciate the simple pleasures of a long walk

Stretch when you wake

Always run to greet loved ones who have been away

If you want something, dig to find it

Play every day

Have a great weekend.  Love, Emma

Progress Report on Emma

Emma the Border Terrier is doing very well.  It's a bit too hot for her today and yesterday the thunder scared her during the storm.  She's taking walks every day and seems to like the shady, grassy areas of the park more than The Strand.  I can understand why; too many people and dogs on hot Summer days on The Strand.

We've finally settled on food that she likes.  Of course, it's only available at Whole Foods, so I've been running up there quite often to make sure we don't run out. 

This is Emma at Live Oak Park, enjoying the shade.  She also likes tall grass and pine cones. 

We took a long road trip last week.  Since she's pretty small, she gets to ride in a booster seat in the back.  She enjoyed the trip. 

She liked staying in the hotel.  We took her crate and packed all her stuff in it like a suitcase.  Food, toys, blanket, bowls all went inside the crate. It was easy and worked pretty well.  

So, Emma's settling in with us.  We are enjoying her a lot. 

Emma, The B T

Meet Emma, our Border Terrier puppy.  We got her on Saturday and it has been non-stop since then.  It's been a lot of fun and a lot of work to make sure that she is being well-cared for, not too spoiled. 

We've had a very active few days!  She loves to run and jump and play. 

Is This A French Dog?

Meet Emma, the Border Terrier.  She is still with the breeder but I'll get her very soon.  She's ready to come home with us. 

She is an American dog, but she'll be coming to Paris with us in September for the first time.  As she's being trained, she will have to become bi-lingual, I guess. I'll have to see if this is too confusing for her. 

This Summer, she will go everywhere with us so that she can learn to be a French dog.  She will have to sit under a cafe table without barking or whining, she will have to be able to ride on the Metro and bus, also without causing a riot.  She will have to politely meet other dogs and people.  Even though she was born in the US, she will become a little, furry French girl.  I think she can do it! 

Louvre Horror

We arrived at the Louvre on Sunday afternoon, hoping to see the Poussin exhibition and a few Flemish painters. 

The courtyard with the pyramids was crowded with tourists posing and taking photos, kids pushing and chasing each other, the guys selling the Eiffel Tower replicas and water and lines of people waiting to enter the museum.

Something caught our attention right away--a huge red metal box that spilled into about a quarter of the courtyard.   Ugly, ugly, ugly.  It has the words "bookstore" written in a variety of languages.  I was so horrified I could barely hold my phone steady to take this photo.

While it doesn't look permanent, in France, you never know.  

We entered through the entrance reserved for Amis du Louvre members.  The entrance has been fortified and has three guards in front and two more inside.  Last time we visited, there was one uninterested guy who didn't even check our cards.  We entered and went directly to the Information booth, which had also moved.  A nice woman declared the red building to be temporary and "moche"; translation is ugly, horrible, sad. 

The Louvre is undergoing a big renovation.  They are re-doing the bookstore.  When it is finished, the big red, ugly building will disappear.  Evidently a lot of the ground floor will be re-done.  We had to figure out a new way to leave the building, our old "Sortie" is covered with boards and tape. 

I wonder if they'll add more food/beverage service.  We are never able to find a place for a cup of tea or coffee, the restaurants are filled to the brim. 

I loved the previous bookstore, although it had been recently changed to two levels and the stairs were a bit slippery.  I was always able to find great books at this store.

We did see the Poussin.  It wasn't very crowded.  We did see the Flemish paintings which I preferred to the Poussin.  We did not go into the bookstore on principle. 

Les Faux Amis, False French Friends

I'm still struggling, after all these years with speaking, reading, writing French.  While I can communicate most of the time and understand what others say, sometimes it isn't pretty.

Verb conjugations go out the window in a heated debate.  Articles and adjectives, which must agree in gender and number, get all fouled up.  People get the idea, I'm sure.  This is all very hard for an educated person to deal with but this is my reality.

Luckily, today's faux amis lesson involved a stranger; I'll never see him again and he taught me a word.  Bravo.

I was jogging (slowly) in the Luxembourg Gardens this morning and a man wearing a suit and tie, dress shirt, hard shoes, flagged me down and when I stopped, he said, "Une Bonne Allure".  Hmmm, I thought it must be this cute pink jacket from Athleta.  Smiling, I finished my workout and came home to look it up, just to make sure I knew what he was saying.

Alas, "allure" is another faux amis, it means "pace or speed".  He was either complimenting my speed or telling me to go faster, I'll never know which one.

Faux amis are horrifying to me.

Here are some more that could slip out of my mouth at any time. The first word is the English, the second is the meaning in French.

Sensible
Delai
Raisin
Prune
Intoxicaation
Hardi
Assister

There are hundreds of such traps just waiting to be sprung on me. 

Importing/Exporting A Pet

One day soon, one of these little dogs will be sitting on a plane next to me (actually at my feet, hopefully) for the long flight.  They have to be old enough to get a Rabies vaccine and then wait 21 days to go from the US to France and 30 days to go from France to the US.  So, they will be a bit older by then. 

Not sure if this is a wise move, but I've wanted a dog forever.  I researched all dog breeds to find the right one for my situation.  I want a dog that is hardy enough to make this trip several times a year without too much complaining as well.  The dog also has to be able to run/walk with me a lot.  These little things can run with horses and I talked to one woman who owns one and she told me that she rides a bicycle and the dog chases it for exercise.  My kind of dog. 

I won't get to take him or her home for a few weeks.  By that time, he/she will look more like a dog, I hope.

Pour et Contre, Deux

More from my "for" and "against" life in France, specifically Paris. 

Obviously, I'm got conflicts but I guess there are always trade-offs in life.

The "Pour"

Vitrines -- Window displays, especially at Christmas.  It's worth walking around after dark just to see in the windows.
"Real" seasons -- California is basically seasonless.
Beauty everywhere -- This is a big one.  There is beauty everywhere; gardens, architecture, museums. 
Public transportation -- For less than Euro 70 per month I can travel throughout Paris and on the weekends and holidays throughout Ile de France.  Added to this is that the city is also walkable.  I get off several bus or metro stops from my destination and walk, just to see a new neighborhood or to connect with my quartier.
Chaudiere -- This is pretty common in France, the instant hot water heater with no tank.  Very efficient.
Dog-friendly -- Dogs can go almost everywhere and to keep this right, they are well-behaved.
Trash pick up every day with multiple kinds of recycling

The "Contre"

Sunday closures --Many/most stores are closed on Sunday.  This has continued to freak me out.
Pickpockets -- Hyper vigilance is required, they are very cagey.
Aggressive beggars
No bar-b-ques, Trader Joe's, Target or Cost Co
Poor TV programming (I read more, so that's also a "pour" I guess)
Bureaucracy -- I think that there are so many civil servants to skew the unemployment figures lower
Strikes and demonstrations - especially in the Spring and Fall it seems like there's at least one per day
Too many school holidays

I could go on and on.