Recipes

We are going to a 4th of July party on Tuesday. The party is a neighborhood tradition.  It is very low-key and fun.  Most people come up from the beach just before the party starts so it is very casual.

It is potluck.  My assignment was a main dish or large salad.  At first, I heard that I had a dessert assignment.  Desserts are not my forte.

The first assignment sent me running to my recipe file.  I have lots of cookbooks if necessary but I prefer to offer something tried and true.  I actually have two recipe files, one from Paris and one from the US.  They have some redundancy, probably 50%.  Since this is the 4th of July, I hit the US file first.

The file is a trip down memory lane.  I can remember when, where and for who I made each dish.  I often write on them to note the date, any changes I made to the recipe and if it worked out or not.  Many of the pages are stained and tattered.

Finding the dessert recipe wasn't hard.  It is the recipe from Terry's Mom for a "14 Carat Carrot Cake".  Nice.  The cake is delicious and very large so I knew this would work.  My mother-in-law was a good cook and baker and she always made a homemade cake for Sunday dinner when we were guests.  I put the recipe on the counter so that I could buy the ingredients. Then, I heard back from the hostess/organizer that my assignement is now salad.

Back to the file for my Mom's "Palm Valley Chinese Chicken Salad".  Again a time-honored winner. Every time I've made this I've been asked for the recipe.  My Mom used to scour the LA Times Thursday Food section (it doesn't exist anymore) for interesting new recipes.  The salad is going to the party and I think it will be a hit.

The most fun part of this exercise was the recipe research.  I thought happy thoughts about my Mom and Jean, my Mother-in-Law and I miss them both.  I'm lucky to have all their recipes.

Having Too Much Champagne

is never a bad thing.

I try to wait for champagne to go on sale and then take the caddy to the local Nicolas and stock up. 

Emma With Voltaire

We took a walk in St Germain des Pres a few days ago.  I wanted Emma to meet Voltaire.  His statue is on rue de Seine.  She seemed impressed. 

Addicted To My Fitbit

I have been using a Fitbit since 2014.  I received my first one as a birthday gift.   At the time, it was hard to set up and I wasn't sure I would use it. 

Suddenly my phone would light up with a walking achievement -- 20,000 steps in one day, 35 floors climbed in one day.  It started to take hold.  Cumulative weekly achievements and daily goals now are my everyday thoughts. 

I should add that I'm on my 3rd Fitbit.  

Yesterday before going to the airport to fly, I took off my Fitbit and I thought I carefully put it away in my purse.  On arrival, I couldn't find it.  I searched and searched.  About half way through the day, I gave up and ordered a new one, scheduling the arrival for the same day because I can't miss too many days.

Then, I was tinkering on my computer and realized that my Fitbit had synced.  I don't think it can sync from far away.  So, back to the search.  I tore everything up again and finally found it, tucked safely in my coin purse.  Yeah!

But, now I have to return the new one that I ordered.  I guess that's a good problem to have.

Test

French Dog Park

Our preferred dog park is the Luxembourg Gardens. 

Dogs are allowed to go in about 1/6 of the garden.  It's not the nicest part of the garden, not many flowers, not much grass.  A lot of dust at this time of year.  A large area has old horse chestnut trees that provide a beautiful green canopy in the Spring and Summer.  In the Fall, they provide mounds of dead, brown, fallen leaves that the dogs love to sniff, jump in, roll in and play.  Dogs walk home from the garden with dead leaves hanging from their mouths, bellies, ears, feet.  Once in awhile, there is a dead bird that can be sniffed by all the dogs before it is cleaned up by one of the gardeners.

There are guards that patrol all areas of the garden.  They don't have much power, they don't have guns, but they have whistles.   There is a little grass in the dog area.  But neither dogs nor people are allowed to step on the grass.  It's really hard to keep a dog off a patch of grass.  If the dog takes one step onto the grass, there is an immediate and persistent sound -- the whistle blowing from a distance by one of the guards. 

If you break a rule, you can get a ticket and will have to pay a fine.  Some of the guards are relaxed and lenient.  A few are filled with importance at the sound of their whistle.  These guys also seem to have eyes in the back of their head.  Whistle blowing, I've got to quickly think up an excuse, in French, when he approaches to tell me that dogs are not allowed on the grass.  He never believes my story, but I've been spared the ticket so far.

Imagine, you can't go on the grass!  It's just not fair. 

Found Pumpkins, Early This Year

It was easy this year. 

Normally, I spend several weeks running around town trying to find a pumpkin or two to help celebrate the Fall.  In the past, I've found them in weird places like a little shop on Avenue du Maine and in normal places like the Marche aux Fleurs.  The marche doesn't have them until mid-to-late October.

Yesterday morning, I was at the outdoor market at the metro stop, Corentin Celton near the end of the Line 12.  It is a great little market and the travel is easy for me.  I had a list of things to get because we are having guests over this week.  As I rounded the corner with a bag already heavy from the stop at the poultry butcher, heading toward the produce stand that I prefer (there are about 7 or 8 at this market), lo, pumpkins.  At first I only saw the typical little orange ones but as I looked around, I saw these beautiful squash too.  I asked the man for these three.  He looked at me like I was nuts.   Why would this woman want three of these?  These are Fall decorations in our household, not food!

I am so happy that I found them so easily this year.  They will grace our apartment until after Thanksgiving and, maybe, if they're still fresh enough, they might become dinner.  

By the way, I had a very heavy load on the metro after this shopping excursion. 

Kinda Depressing Here...

Everyone I meet that lives here in Paris is complaining about the bad things that are happening right now. 

Strikes
Demonstrations
Terrorist Attacks
Bad Weather

When will it end? 

This isn't just friends talking, it's complete strangers.  I was in the vet's office with Emma today.  A woman came out with the same breed and we talked for a few minutes. At the end of the conversation she reminded me that Paris isn't always like this, we'll have to live through it.  I agreed. 

Then the vet said basically the same thing, almost apologetic.  

It's pouring rain right now.  Pouring, not just rain.  It's June 16. Isn't it supposed to be getting sunny?  It's not even really warm.  At least when it rains, the demonstrations aren't as big.  Who wants to run around demonstrating in the driving rain. 

When there's a strike the buses don't run as often, so we have to take the metro.  Now, on the metro, I look at every person in the car.  As the train is pulling up, I look into each car and do a quick assessment of terrorist threats.  If someone looks a bit odd and has a big backpack or suitcase, I pass on that car.  I haven't sunken so far into the fear zone that I let that metro train go by and take the next one, although I've considered it. 

OK, now it's sunny.  What's that all about?  Now I have to take my sunglasses, my umbrella and wear sensible shoes just to go out.

Trash Strike

In addition to rolling transportation strikes and demonstrations, higher levels of security and the normal bureaucracy here, we are now having a trash strike in my neighborhood.  This is on rue Vaugirard at rue Cassette.  The street was blocked for repair work.  Immediately homeless immigrants set up shop (maybe 7 of them) on the sidewalk.  Now everyone must be dumping their trash here.  There's plenty of trash on the sidewalk too.  It's starting to get warm here and the trash has been out for days.  The inevitable leaks are starting and making the sidewalk pretty gross. 

I hope it's over soon.  It is really hard to walk a dog in this kind of mess and I'm afraid to open my windows on the street side of the apartment. 

Shortage Of Fresh Food

I've been the the local G20 twice this week, both Monday and today, Wednesday and both times, I've left almost empty-handed. 

I'm glad that I went to the outdoor market at Corentin Celton last weekend or we'd have been in trouble by now.

As I was checking out today, I asked the cashier why there was such a limited supply of fresh food.  She replied that they get their shipments on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday.  I guess they have sold out of the good stuff by the next day.

I guess I have to adjust my shopping days but I'll also have to adjust the hours that I shop I guess.  Probably the shipment doesn't come first thing in the morning and if it does, no one will put it all out on the shelves right away, so I will have to consider a T/Th/Sat afternoon trip I guess.

The flower market has the same schedule, so maybe this is something French?  No idea.  I'll have to ask around.

Waiting For Godot

Here in France, it's almost a hopeless exercise to assume that a package will be delivered properly.  On time, in good condition, the right product is my definition of "properly". 

This morning, we're waiting for our UPS package of mail.  UPS is our preferred carrier for this kind of thing.  DHL is horrible and Fed Ex is more expensive.

We get emails that tell us exactly when the package will arrive.  By 10:30 today.  But, it's 10 AM and no package yet. 

Sometimes the guy that delivers it is in a hurry and he doesn't even buzz our door.  Hours later, after we've been waiting all morning, we get an email that we weren't home when he came so we need to deal with it. 

Once we really weren't home and the guy left it with our guardienne who gave it to one of our neighbors in error.  That had to be recovered too. 

Well, I'm wrong. Today, he came within the time window.  I've only waited for about three hours, but it was all worth it. 

Happy Birthday

Emma is one today.  I think back one year ago to realize how hard it was to get her.

The first breeder fell through and I scrambled to try to find another puppy.  I didn't know for sure that I'd get her until I got to the breeders and fell in love with the little girl that has now chewed up the furniture, requires walks when I'm tired and has generally changed the pattern of my life for the better.

She's traveled with me, shopped with me, slept with me.

It's been a wonderful, invigorating year.

We Survived The Windstorm

An El Nino storm blew through town yesterday.  First we had rain.  It was nice, not too hard, didn't last too long.  Then the wind whipped up.  Howling, growling wind.  Things were banging outside and the house was shaking.  The lights were flickering on and off.  I lit candles and charged all my electronics, just in case. But, the lights stayed on and we enjoyed staying inside.

Emma is little.  I tried to get her to go outside.  She got to the door, the wind gusted in and she decided to wait.  Afraid that she'd blow away, I finally had to put her on a leash to take her out.  We all survived.

And the best part of a big storm is that when it's over, we get to go outside on a nice sunny day.

Here's Emma enjoying her morning walk in the park.

Emma's First Christmas, In Her Words...

Can you believe that she put this on me?  I can't imagine being seen outside like this, of course.  I had to act quickly so I pretended to be impaired.  I walked sideways with my tail and my head down.  This got an immediate reaction and this stupid Christmas bow is history.  (I hope it doesn't show up again on the 25th...)

There are many things to do around here that aren't Christmas related. I've been keeping in shape with several dreadful forced marches per day.  I've added yoga to the routine and it seems to have made me much more "zen".  I almost forgot to chew up the chairs today I was so relaxed.

My favorite activity continues to be sleeping on the furniture, which I do about 20 hours per day.  They have really soft furniture and it washable so if I jump up and put dirty prints all over, they don't get too upset.  I try not to chew my bully sticks on the furniture, they might stain.  I'm learning manners even without that silly class they make me attend every week.  Basic Manners, ha!

Merry Christmas!
Love, Emma

Flying The Flag

I've seen several French flags over the last few days.  This one is wonderful. It is on a beach house on The Strand in Hermosa Beach, CA. 

The American flag is on the right (hard to see) and the French flag is on the left.  It makes me feel proud that Americans are showing their solidarity with France.  We all need to stick together at this time. 

I Don't Think The Pilgrims Were Gluten Free

I haven't been in the US for Thanksgiving since 2007.  Celebrating Thanksgiving in Paris is a combination of difficult and easy.   Ingredients like cranberries are becoming easier to find in local markets.   I used to go to the store called "Thanksgiving" in the Marais with my cart and stock up on cranberries, stuffing mix, pumpkin and evaporated milk every year.   It was a wonderful ritual. I ordered the turkey weeks in advance from the butcher and I always got a very nice, small "fermier" turkey. 

The beauty of Thanksgiving celebrated in Paris is that no one else is celebrating so the stores aren't crowded and everyone goes about their business on the day after Thanksgiving.  No Black Friday madness, it's just another day. 

This year I've already ordered the turkey from Bristol Farms.  It will be excellent but it won't be "fermier" even if I get one that is free-range, organic, and ate only GMO free food.  It will still have the fat body of an American turkey.  I will have to start planning my shopping around the holiday, leaving enough time and energy to get everything done. 

In Paris, I don't have to worry about the parking lot being full, there is no parking lot.  But in the US, everyone comes out at once and the lots are full.  My brain switches immediately to US standards as soon as I pass through US immigration and I strive to park in the closest parking spot possible.  No walking to and from the car for me when it is possible to park close to the store.

Two things are different here in the US.  I was in the gym yesterday when the well-meaning trainer was giving a lecture on not indulging during the holidays.  Not very French of him.   In France, people live for the holiday meals and relish them.  They can make up for it tomorrow (or yesterday) but the feast is to be savored.  I am in agreement with this and I will enjoy the traditional foods that we eat only once or twice a year.  The other thing that's different here is "gluten free".  In France, I'm starting to see some packages of food with starbursts saying "sans gluten" in the stores.   You would never hear someone talking about eating gluten free or requesting a gluten free meal.  It doesn't exist. 

Thanksgiving is laden with gluten.  Not sure if wheat was even a grain that was around during the first year in the New World.  Corn was around.  Is corn gluten free?  I'm not sure. 

French people love stuffed food. It's called "farce" and anything from meat and poultry to veggies are stuffed with a variety of ingredients.  A stuffed turkey is a once a year pleasure.  Yes, the stuffing is gluten-laden.  I can't even imagine what stuffing would be like without bread as a base.  And, I guess you can make gravy with something other than flour but I am not sure I could figure it out and perfect it in time for Thanksgiving.   People that are gluten free can avoid the gravy.  What about the pies?  Laden with gluten.

So, we've strayed from whatever the Pilgrims really ate during their first Thanksgiving but we have our traditions.  I will enjoy the holiday in the US. 

Shopping On Sunday

When we first came to Paris there were two things wrong here.  A cup of coffee was too small and all (or most of) the stores were closed on Sunday.

I learned to enjoy "un cafe" and now I drink a small amount of very high quality coffee.  Starbucks invaded Paris years ago. There are several within walking distance but I've never been inside a Paris Starbucks, no need to go.

The Sunday shopping is another story.  When we lived on rue de Seine, the Buci market was nearby and a Champion supermarket plus the outdoor vendors were right there every Sunday morning until about noon or 1 PM.  Yes, it was really crowded but I didn't have to worry about not having something for dinner.  The stores and boutiques were all closed. 

We now live in a neighborhood that is very strict, there is one small bodega that is open on Sunday.  There used to be two but one turned into part of the Bread and Roses upscale restaurant, gallery and market and it is closed on Sundays and every imaginable holiday.

While I've learned to do other things on Sunday and not plan on shopping, the ability to shop still seems important to me.  I understand that the French get together with family and friends on Sunday.  I still want the ability to shop. 

Fairly new is a law that opens several parts of the city to shopping by deeming them "touristic".  Tourists may only have one day in Paris to shop and if all the stores are closed, opportunities for revenue will be missed.  The Champs-Elysee has shops that are open but I would never go there.  Too difficult, too easy to get pick-pocketed, too many tourists.

But a new shopping area in the 15th has been built near the Seine.  It was a shopping center in the past, but it was a run-down area that was a bit far from any metro or bus.  The only time I went was when I had to go to Darty.  Darty moved when they redeveloped the area and I stopped going entirely.   Now I have a new shopping destination on Sunday, Beaugrenelle.   I think it has over 100 shops, most of which are open all day today. 

Travel With The BT

This Summer, Emma has traveled five times.  They were all car trips.  She stayed at the Park Hyatt Aviara, The Homewood Suites, the Four Seasons Residence Club and now she's added a trip to Cambria and Ventana in Big Sur.  She didn't complain too much about the long drive back from Big Sur.  It took all day on Saturday. 

Now, we have our big trip coming up.  Our flight to Paris.  Emma likes to travel in style, as you can see from our Summer's adventures.  So, we just upgraded to Business Class which will give her a little bit more leg room.  She will also get to visit the Air France lounge both in LA and Paris, lucky girl. 

She's been groomed and she has a new crate with wheels for secure travel.  I think she's ready.  My purse is now filled with treats and poop bags, both of which, I'm sure will be needed at some point.  I've got her matching leashes and collars.   She'll have to wear a harnass on the plane so that she is more secure.  But once we're in Paris, she can revert to her purple collar and leash, they look very good on her.

I also have a folding cup for water for her and a small blanket.  I think we're ready to travel with the BT.  Her pet passport is even up to date.

The USDA

To take an American dog to France, you have to have your dog examined by a USDA accredited vet and then take the (extensive) paperwork to the USDA for approval.  You have to do this not more than 10 days before your arrival in France.  So, if you weren't already busy enough, this adds some excitement to the trip preparation activity.

The vet went smoothly.  They have a "concierge" who is knowledgeable about the paperwork and completed it (for a $$$ price) for me.  I had to be aware of what Emma needed to have done in advance but it wasn't too difficult.  I got the paperwork yesterday but we didn't finish our appointment until after noon and the USDA is only open from 7:30 to 11 AM.  So, I got up earlier than usual in order to get to the USDA when it opened. 

When I arrived, they had a "take a number" machine.  Having been in France for a long time and also being a Cost Co member, I am familiar with these machines.  I got #23 and it was 7:31 AM so I guess everyone has the same idea about arriving on time or early for this activity. 

I took a seat and looked around.  It seemed that the majority of the others in the waiting room were professional animal movers.  They talked and joked among themselves, telling stories about the Jack Russell that got away or the cat with the claws.  At 7:30, this isn't funny at all. 

They finally got to #23 and I went to the window.  Bullet-proof glass, like someone might try to rob (?) the USDA or kill someone.  I'm not sure which.  It was relatively serene.  The woman behind the glass enclosure took my paperwork, my credit card and my driver's license and then announced to the group that she was going on her coffee break so she'd be gone for awhile.  Perfect!  Maybe that's why the need the bullet-proof glass.  I was salivating for a cup of coffee. 

The time passed.  I ended up sitting next to another woman who was relocating with her dog to France.  We chatted.  Her name was called, she got her paperwork and left.  I waited.  Eventually a man called me up to the window, handed me the most official looking set of papers that I've ever seen.  He was a USDA vet.  He answered a few of my questions and off I went with Emma's French paperwork.  

The WICE French English Conversation Groups will re-start in September.

The WICE French English Conversation Groups will re-start in September.  

Note that the Tuesday groups will meet at the Bistrot 15eme on September 15 and 29.  The annual WICE Open House will be held on September 22.  You can participate in a conversation group during the event.

Tuesday groups

The Tuesday groups will start on October 6, 2015

Time: 2:00 to 3:00 informal conversations
        3:00 to 4:30 in groups, 45 min. in each language
Place:69, rue Violet, Paris 75015   Metro:  Commerce, Bus:  70 or 88

Friday groups

The Friday groups will start on September 18, 2015

Time: 4 pm - 5:30 pm
Place:  14, rue de Surene, Paris 75008

Metro:   Madeleine

Thursday groups

Time: 6:30 pm - 8:00 pm

Place:  WICE office

Groups will meet during school holidays. 

Emma Likes This Quote -- Words To Live By

Emma likes these words which we found on the back of a dog treat package:

LIVE SIMPLY

SPEAK KINDLY

LOVE UNCONDITIONALLY

If you think about it, we could all be better friends and caretakers if our daily philosophy matched our dogs'.

Appreciate the simple pleasures of a long walk

Stretch when you wake

Always run to greet loved ones who have been away

If you want something, dig to find it

Play every day

Have a great weekend.  Love, Emma

Progress Report on Emma

Emma the Border Terrier is doing very well.  It's a bit too hot for her today and yesterday the thunder scared her during the storm.  She's taking walks every day and seems to like the shady, grassy areas of the park more than The Strand.  I can understand why; too many people and dogs on hot Summer days on The Strand.

We've finally settled on food that she likes.  Of course, it's only available at Whole Foods, so I've been running up there quite often to make sure we don't run out. 

This is Emma at Live Oak Park, enjoying the shade.  She also likes tall grass and pine cones. 

We took a long road trip last week.  Since she's pretty small, she gets to ride in a booster seat in the back.  She enjoyed the trip. 

She liked staying in the hotel.  We took her crate and packed all her stuff in it like a suitcase.  Food, toys, blanket, bowls all went inside the crate. It was easy and worked pretty well.  

So, Emma's settling in with us.  We are enjoying her a lot. 

Emma, The B T

Meet Emma, our Border Terrier puppy.  We got her on Saturday and it has been non-stop since then.  It's been a lot of fun and a lot of work to make sure that she is being well-cared for, not too spoiled. 

We've had a very active few days!  She loves to run and jump and play. 

Is This A French Dog?

Meet Emma, the Border Terrier.  She is still with the breeder but I'll get her very soon.  She's ready to come home with us. 

She is an American dog, but she'll be coming to Paris with us in September for the first time.  As she's being trained, she will have to become bi-lingual, I guess. I'll have to see if this is too confusing for her. 

This Summer, she will go everywhere with us so that she can learn to be a French dog.  She will have to sit under a cafe table without barking or whining, she will have to be able to ride on the Metro and bus, also without causing a riot.  She will have to politely meet other dogs and people.  Even though she was born in the US, she will become a little, furry French girl.  I think she can do it! 

Louvre Horror

We arrived at the Louvre on Sunday afternoon, hoping to see the Poussin exhibition and a few Flemish painters. 

The courtyard with the pyramids was crowded with tourists posing and taking photos, kids pushing and chasing each other, the guys selling the Eiffel Tower replicas and water and lines of people waiting to enter the museum.

Something caught our attention right away--a huge red metal box that spilled into about a quarter of the courtyard.   Ugly, ugly, ugly.  It has the words "bookstore" written in a variety of languages.  I was so horrified I could barely hold my phone steady to take this photo.

While it doesn't look permanent, in France, you never know.  

We entered through the entrance reserved for Amis du Louvre members.  The entrance has been fortified and has three guards in front and two more inside.  Last time we visited, there was one uninterested guy who didn't even check our cards.  We entered and went directly to the Information booth, which had also moved.  A nice woman declared the red building to be temporary and "moche"; translation is ugly, horrible, sad. 

The Louvre is undergoing a big renovation.  They are re-doing the bookstore.  When it is finished, the big red, ugly building will disappear.  Evidently a lot of the ground floor will be re-done.  We had to figure out a new way to leave the building, our old "Sortie" is covered with boards and tape. 

I wonder if they'll add more food/beverage service.  We are never able to find a place for a cup of tea or coffee, the restaurants are filled to the brim. 

I loved the previous bookstore, although it had been recently changed to two levels and the stairs were a bit slippery.  I was always able to find great books at this store.

We did see the Poussin.  It wasn't very crowded.  We did see the Flemish paintings which I preferred to the Poussin.  We did not go into the bookstore on principle. 

Les Faux Amis, False French Friends

I'm still struggling, after all these years with speaking, reading, writing French.  While I can communicate most of the time and understand what others say, sometimes it isn't pretty.

Verb conjugations go out the window in a heated debate.  Articles and adjectives, which must agree in gender and number, get all fouled up.  People get the idea, I'm sure.  This is all very hard for an educated person to deal with but this is my reality.

Luckily, today's faux amis lesson involved a stranger; I'll never see him again and he taught me a word.  Bravo.

I was jogging (slowly) in the Luxembourg Gardens this morning and a man wearing a suit and tie, dress shirt, hard shoes, flagged me down and when I stopped, he said, "Une Bonne Allure".  Hmmm, I thought it must be this cute pink jacket from Athleta.  Smiling, I finished my workout and came home to look it up, just to make sure I knew what he was saying.

Alas, "allure" is another faux amis, it means "pace or speed".  He was either complimenting my speed or telling me to go faster, I'll never know which one.

Faux amis are horrifying to me.

Here are some more that could slip out of my mouth at any time. The first word is the English, the second is the meaning in French.

Sensible
Delai
Raisin
Prune
Intoxicaation
Hardi
Assister

There are hundreds of such traps just waiting to be sprung on me. 

Importing/Exporting A Pet

One day soon, one of these little dogs will be sitting on a plane next to me (actually at my feet, hopefully) for the long flight.  They have to be old enough to get a Rabies vaccine and then wait 21 days to go from the US to France and 30 days to go from France to the US.  So, they will be a bit older by then. 

Not sure if this is a wise move, but I've wanted a dog forever.  I researched all dog breeds to find the right one for my situation.  I want a dog that is hardy enough to make this trip several times a year without too much complaining as well.  The dog also has to be able to run/walk with me a lot.  These little things can run with horses and I talked to one woman who owns one and she told me that she rides a bicycle and the dog chases it for exercise.  My kind of dog. 

I won't get to take him or her home for a few weeks.  By that time, he/she will look more like a dog, I hope.

Pour et Contre, Deux

More from my "for" and "against" life in France, specifically Paris. 

Obviously, I'm got conflicts but I guess there are always trade-offs in life.

The "Pour"

Vitrines -- Window displays, especially at Christmas.  It's worth walking around after dark just to see in the windows.
"Real" seasons -- California is basically seasonless.
Beauty everywhere -- This is a big one.  There is beauty everywhere; gardens, architecture, museums. 
Public transportation -- For less than Euro 70 per month I can travel throughout Paris and on the weekends and holidays throughout Ile de France.  Added to this is that the city is also walkable.  I get off several bus or metro stops from my destination and walk, just to see a new neighborhood or to connect with my quartier.
Chaudiere -- This is pretty common in France, the instant hot water heater with no tank.  Very efficient.
Dog-friendly -- Dogs can go almost everywhere and to keep this right, they are well-behaved.
Trash pick up every day with multiple kinds of recycling

The "Contre"

Sunday closures --Many/most stores are closed on Sunday.  This has continued to freak me out.
Pickpockets -- Hyper vigilance is required, they are very cagey.
Aggressive beggars
No bar-b-ques, Trader Joe's, Target or Cost Co
Poor TV programming (I read more, so that's also a "pour" I guess)
Bureaucracy -- I think that there are so many civil servants to skew the unemployment figures lower
Strikes and demonstrations - especially in the Spring and Fall it seems like there's at least one per day
Too many school holidays

I could go on and on. 

See's Candies

We have an invitation to a New Year's Eve party tonight and didn't know what to bring to our hosts.   They are wine experts and have everything that they need and want. 

I thought and thought.

Finally the answer came:  a box of See's candies.  I haven't eaten a piece of See's in years!  Willpower is often overrated.  I hope they will appreciate this nostalgic offering.

I expected long lines at the store.  So,  I parked far away and walked.  When I opened the door, the store smelled incredible -- just like I remembered as a kid.  Sweet and a little cold (don't want the chocolates to melt...). 

I found what I was looking for and had a short wait in line.  I was tempted to buy more than what I'd planned but I resisted.  As I was paying, the cashier offered me a chocolate.  Considering that our hosts might not open/offer the box that I bought, I accepted.  Yum! I finished it on the way back to the car.  I'm sure that the walk didn't begin to burn the calories of the chocolate, but it was worth it.  Absolutely incredible.

I wish I had more occasions to buy See's candies.  Happy New Year to everyone.

The "Pour" and the "Contre", Part I

I took a class during the Fall, "Guided Conversation in French".  One of the best parts of the class was being in the same room with a lot of other people like me.  They were all Anglophones (the students were from the US and the UK) who live in Paris, struggling to perfect their french language capability.

Our homework was in the form of a reading assignment.  The idea was to read the article, learn any new vocabulary and come prepared to discuss the topic with the others.  There was a wide range of topics; some of which were interesting to me and some that weren't.  In any case, I learned something every week and got to speak with others about complicated concepts, opinions and ideas.

At first, even though we knew many of the others, we weren't very friendly.  We were focused and I think everyone was trying to put his/her best foot forward.  It was also a bit competitive in terms of speaking time.  The most aggressive person got the most speaking time.  Just like life.

Many of the "conversations" had no reply, no discussion, it was just a round table of opinions.  But, one day, while thinking about the week's subject, I started to jot down the "pour" (for) and the "contre" (against) life in Paris.

When my time came to speak, I pulled out the list, declared I'd made a list.  Everyone snickered.  Too light, not enough verb tenses.

I will share a few of these "for" and "against" ideas in the next few posts.  Let me know what you think.

A few "pours"

Monoprix -- the great store that has both food and clothes, makeup and household items -- the french version, but better, of Target

Windows at Christmas-time -- the french shopkeepers really dress their windows during the holidays

La Poste -- the post office.  The french post office is a bank in addition to a post office so they have plenty of people to help you.  In my neighborhood, there is no line, there are people to help me and they are polite

A few "contres"

Food is more expensive -- both in restaurants and in the markets, wine is cheaper (pour)

Bureaucracy -- a mild form of torture when you try to get something done

Most stores are closed on Sunday

The lists grow every day.  More to come.

Shopping in the USA

It is really nice to have a car available for Christmas shopping.  Buy the stuff, throw it in the trunk, lock the car and return to the stores for another round of spending.

What impresses me the most about this year's shopping is the discounts.  Every store has some gimmick that gives a price reduction.  Macy's has coupons for 20% off and also for $25 and $15.  You can juggle these coupons for maximum savings.

REI has a rebate that they give to their "members".  I got about 10% off a purchase today, a big help.

In a week or so, it will all be discounted even more.  But, the moment will be lost; these are gifts and I can't wait.

Wreaths and other decorations are really cheap and nice at Trader Joe's and their cheese is a steal compared with other grocery stores.  You just have to know where to go.  

Things are different than in previous years. In one store, I had to pay 75 cents for a box!  Bags to hold your loot are another commodity and plastic bags are verboten.  Customer service is almost nil; cashiers are grumpy and bored at the same time.  We're rushing so much that we don't notice. 

I'm home with the loot.  Now I can try to creatively wrap it all and get it to the right people at the right time.

Merry Christmas

Déjà Noël

France doesn't have a "start date" for the Christmas holiday shopping period.  Thanksgiving marks the season in the US, so we know we only have one month to enjoy the lights, gifts, food of the holiday.

In Paris, it's already Christmas.  The lights are everywhere and every store is stocked full of goodies.   Decorations, food, lights.  The lead up to Christmas is definitely more fun than the actual holiday.  I'm always tired and a bit burned out by the time the 25th arrives.

It's not even December 1st and here are a few of the light shows in Paris.

These were both taken on a small outdoor shopping mall that is off the rue Royale near La Madeleine.

Re-entering Paris, Gare de Lyon, Rush Hour on Friday

After a lovely few days in the Burgundy countryside, we returned to Paris at about 7:30 PM on Friday night. 

Gare de Lyon always has a long line for taxis and Friday evening was no exception.  Luckily we weren't too tired, didn't have jet lag and didn't have much luggage.  Finally it was our turn, we got in the taxi.

As the taxi left the parking lot, we were greeted with a symphony of honking, screaming, lights flashing, cars going in all directions.  I bet it's this way every Friday night.  I was so happy to be back in Paris, even after just a few days of vacation, I didn't mind at all.  I relished the cab ride in a light rain back home.

Burgundy was wonderful, very educational.  We took a tour of the Beaune wine country. 

Yes, it was much colder than Paris and with limited suitcase space, I wore many layers. 

We saw some very expensive real estate.  The wine from this vineyard costs several hundred Euro per bottle.  We were told it takes 2-3 vines to produce one bottle.

Beaune and the surrounding area is a very ancient, dating back to the 13th Century for many of the buildings and associations that still make wine today. 

Evidently, the population of Beaune was reduced by about 75% during the Plague.  We visited the Hotel Dieu, then a hospital mostly for the poor.  It was beautiful.  Medicine was a bit more barbaric, with butchers as surgeons and plants for medicine. 

The apothecary was filled with tinctures, plants, and powders still in their bottles waiting for the next patient.  Hopefully, the patients survived the medical treatment. 

We were closely watched as we left the Collegiale Notre Dame church. 

Studying French in California

If I don't maintain my French language skills consistently, I forget it all.  Quickly.  

Reading, writing, speaking and listening in French, it's so easy in France.  I'm surrounded.  I have to understand, and be able to communicate on a minute-by-minute basis.  The phone rings, the doorbell buzzes, the internet breaks down.  There's no hiding. 

The long, warm California days lull me into inaction, inactivity.  Everyone speaks English.  I can drive my car and understand the road signs.  If the internet breaks, I can call and speak to someone in English even if they're in India.  

I'll be back in France soon, needing French.  I've been studying French this Summer in school.  The class is very comfortable, all Anglophones trying to improve their vocabulary, comprehension skills, their accents.  We're in the same boat. We all make the same mistakes.   It's been a great experience. 

In English we say, I am X years old.  In French, I have X years.  You just have to memorize it I guess.  Hopefully theses Summer sessions will pay off.  

I try to switch languages mid-flight as a symbolic gesture.  On the flight to France, I order my first glass of champagne in English.  The meal comes quickly, English.  When the flight is almost over and they turn on the lights to wake us up, I'm in France.  I order my breakfast in French, say "au revoir" as I deplane. 

What else can I do?  I try to read Le Figaro on the internet.  I watch french TV.  It all counts as studying. 

Tech Support -- Aargh!

I have been struggling with technical problems for about ten days.

It started innocently enough with a letter from my internet provider.  They wanted to change out some equipment, free of charge, to give me faster internet.  That's a good thing, I made an appointment.

The guy came out and installed the equipment.  Internet, phone and TV worked.  However, I need a "Micro Cell" at home to get cell phone service and we have a SlingBox to watch our US TV anywhere in the world.  Neither one of these worked after the installation of the new equipment.  The guy who installed the new equipment left, muttering that he had done his job properly.

The saga had begun.  Trips to the cell phone store were frustrating.  I had to go twice, waiting both times before someone could help me.  I also called and the person hung up (or I got disconnected, hard to tell).  I finally got a new Micro Cell, went home and installed it.  It didn't work.  I called the manager at the cell phone store (she had given me her card and her private number).  She didn't answer and the message on her phone stated that she didn't have a "voice mailbox".  Over the next four days, I called about 10 times.  She never answered the phone and the mailbox was never functional.

Realizing that the problem stemmed from the work that was done, I went back to our internet service provider.  My theme was, "everything worked before you installed the new system and now it doesn't".   This seems pretty straightforward to me.  It took five phone calls over three days before I finally got some help.  Each call required going through an elaborate protocol just to get a person on the phone.  During the fifth call, a  "Level 3" tech support guy told me that a "high level" tech would be at my house at 8 AM the next day.

The doorbell rang and I opened the door to the same tech guy who had walked away without fixing the problem the first time.  My face dropped.  I'm sure he wasn't happy either.  I reviewed the situation with him.  He ran some diagnostics and told me that everything was fine.  I disagreed.  Over the next two hours, he consulted many people within his organization and they finally re-installed everything differently, using the same type of equipment that I had when everything worked.  When it was all up and running, miraculously, the Micro Cell sprang to life.

The Slingbox still didn't work.  Again, the tech guy stated that he'd done his job and packed up and left.  Now only one thing doesn't work, so I guess we're making progress.

Over the next few hours, I went online with Slingbox who told me that I had to pay $29.95 to get tech support because my box was over one year old and out of warranty.  They pointed toward their on-line resources.  Free is good so I looked over the resources and came across a video.  I watched it, followed it and eventually the Slingbox also sprang back to life.

I've spent at least 12 hours on this but everything is back to normal, meaning the way it was before the first appointment that was designed to improve our system. 

Food In Berlin

This is the typical Berlin lunch or dinner.  Sausages (wurst), sauerkraut, potatoes.  Wash it down with a Dunkel (dark) beer.  Not my favorite cuisine, but Terry loved it.  He tried every kind of sausage at one point. 

I made the mistake of ordering a salad without really looking at the ingredients and got a salad of cold cuts chopped up, cheese, red onions and pickles.  No lettuce, no tomatoes.  I looked more carefully after this.  Bread, when served, is brown bread.  A glass of water is very hard to get. 

Even though the guide books said that the tip is included with the meal, most of the bills said that the tip wasn't included, so I tipped.  Hard to know about this one. 

We didn't eat here but it was very crowded all the time, so it must be good. 

The Berlin Wall, Street Art

There is quite a large section of the Berlin Wall that is still intact.  It is not meant to keep people "in" or "out" anymore.  It is, in fact, the world's largest piece of artwork.  It runs along the Spree River. 

Each section has it's own theme or themes.  No idea what they all mean.  Lots of graffiti too.

Graffiti is very prevalent in some neighborhoods in East Berlin.

Some parts of East Berlin are very clean and tidy but others, like this part are filled with street art on every possible space.

 Quite impressive but I wouldn't want it on my building. 

Symbols of the wall -- tall metal spikes. 

Bundestag

This is inside the "Dome" at the Bundestag in Berlin. 

Part of the building is old and part (this part) is very modern. 

We were told that it is hard to get in to see this, but we walked right in after a security check, of course.

We had a wonderful dinner in the rooftop restaurant, quite a treat. 

Berlin is interesting; not relaxing. Mind-boggling.  Old mixed with new.  Order/disorder at the same time.  Quite a change from Paris. 

SAV: Service Apres Vente

Things break. 

I would like to repair them rather than replace if at all possible. 

The washer/dryer combo (yes, one unit) has been leaking a bit.  Just enough to make me watch it, not enough to cause damage.  Time for a repairman to come out.

We bought it at BHV 6 years ago.  The extended warranty that we bought is for five years. 

I found the original receipt and brochure and called BHV's Service Apres Vente (SAV) department to get a repairman to come out.  The number on the receipt was no longer in service so I got a new number on the internet.  When I called this number, it directed me to a third number which I called.  I finally got through to someone who told me that they don't have a tech for Sieman appliances right now, call the company itself.  So I found this number and called them.  After punching in a lot of information including my zip code, the model of the machine, etc. I was told that all operators are busy with other customers, use their on-line service.  I tried the phone number several times before giving up and going on line.

I got to the on-line form and filled it out. It needed the machine serial number, etc.  Luckily I could find it.  I went through several screens and finally got to the finish.  The screen told me that I would get an email with a confirmation of my appointment.  No email came.  I checked the junk/spam box several times and nothing.  The whole day passed no email. 

Finally last night, on my phone but not on my computer, no idea why, I got the confirmation.  It is correct.  Let's see if this works because a new machine costs around Euro 1000 and BHV touts the brand Siemans even though they don't provide SAV for this brand.

It's Goat Season?

At the poultry counter today at our local outdoor market, I spotted a new choice for Easter dinner.  Goat. 

There with the turkey, chicken, quail and guinea hen were several half goats;  ribs and legs.  The meat was light and slightly pink.  The bones were thin and looked a bit flexible.  Probably a young goat. 

I was intrigued by this but I couldn't justify buying it because we already had our Easter dinner planned and organized.  But, I asked the butcher if he'd have the lamb next Sunday.  He replied that he didn't know.  It's goat season around Easter but he didn't know how long it would last.  I'd never thought of a season for meat.  Vegetables and fruit, certainly.  I do know that goats have a season for producing milk.  It is now "goat season" for goat milk and goat cheese.  Goat cheese is a favorite in my household along with goat yogurt. 

I realized that turkey is seasonal in France. It is in the market around Christmas and New Year's.  Not in November.  No pilgrims on the Champs Elysee. 

When I got home, I looked up recipes for goat in my American cookbooks.  The butcher told me that it should be cooked like a rabbit, not roasted.  But, my cookbooks say I can buy a boneless leg and stuff it with herbs, tie it and roast it or I can broil the ribs. 

Let's hope that goat season isn't over until I can get back to the market next Sunday and get it. 

A Visit

My sister is the one wearing the cute shoes.  I am always in "sensible shoes" when sightseeing. 

This is a photo taken by Terry of "The Spinster Sisters", a nickname we got in college because we always lived together and are very close.  We're both long married, but we still like this nickname.  He meant to take our faces but he hasn't quite mastered the iPHONE camera yet.

We got together last week in Paris (can't tell from the picture) and it was non-stop.  Fun, activities, laughing, talking.  All the things that "girls" like to do.  We shopped a bit, walked a lot, saw a lot of things; some of them new, even to me.  The weather was fabulous, which made it much easier to do things outside. 

At the end of it all, we have many happy memories of this great week. 

On n'a pas le droite...

I was in the gym this morning doing my typical Monday morning workout -- cardio then some weights.  It's the Club Med Gym which is a nice gym in France.

I noticed a white cloud of smoke rising about a woman's head in the row of bikes in front of me.  At first, I thought, "Fire".  But, I didn't smell anything and no one else seemed concerned.  So, not wanting to make a big, American-accented French panic, I waited to see what was going on.  It happened again and this time I realized that the woman in front of me was smoking an electronic cigarette while riding the stationery bike.  I couldn't believe it.

No one else seemed to notice, no heads were turning, no one (else) was grimacing. I finished my cardio session and decided to ask at the front desk if smoking is allowed before making a comment.  I found a nice woman that I know, Natalie, who told me right away that, "On n'a pas le droite" to smoke in the gym. 

She quickly found the woman and kicked her out.  Hurray!

Electronic cigarettes are allowed in bars, restaurants and some other public places in Paris.  I don't know about the workplace but I would guess they're not allowed.  They aren't allowed on public transport.  It's just another form of smoke in my opinion, even if you can't smell it, you can certainly see it. 

Ça Change La Vie...

Pollution in Paris?  A life-changer? 

Only if you're a cab driver. 

We live with air pollution in LA all the time.  On a good day the sky looks blue -- until you go to San Diego where the sky is much blue-er.  We don't think too much about it unless it's really bad.  An orange sunset, caused by smog, is gorgeous. 

Now Paris has a big air pollution problem.  It is caused by a confluence of warmer than average daytime temperatures, colder than average nighttime temperatures and lack of rain and wind.  The last two help to move it along to somewhere else, I don't think it ever goes away, it just moves.

For the last few days, public transportation has been free so that people will leave their cars at home.  There are no bikes in the Velib stand, no cars in the Autolib parking spaces near our apartment. Everyone's using them to get around. 

Now, you can only drive on even or odd days depending on your license plate number.  That means that 50% of the cars can't drive today. 

Naturally, taxis and carpools are exempt from this rule.  Our cab driver yesterday was ecstatic.  There were no traffic jams, no cars on the road.  Her exact words to us were, "that changes life".  How simple that was. 

Je Suis Devenue...

Beaujolais Nouveau

I go back and forth on whether to organize an activity for the Beaujolais Nouveau every year.  We haven't done anything for the last few years. 

We had several ideas for this year's event.  Our tennis club hosts an event every year.  We made reservations.  It sounded like a lot of fun when we made the reservations.  We've been to this event before and it was fun, festive and interesting. 

But, it is cold, raining and dark today.  We cancelled the plan to go to the club, it is too far.  We then decided to go to another place, a neighborhood cafe.  As the afternoon progressed, the rain, the cold, the darkness.  We are home for the night.  I went to the local G20 and bought a bottle of 2013 Beaujolais Nouveau which is chilling a bit to take the "edge" off the taste. 

Not exactly the most exciting event, but we are celebrating. 

Affordable Care Act -- Not For Me It's Not (affordable)

I just heard from our insurance agent that we have to change the renewal date on our health insurance plans from August to December.  This will give us a pause, a breather, before the policy price is increased by 30-50%.  The kicker is that immediately we have to pay about $100 more, but in the long run, this will save a bit of money.

It just postpones the inevitable 30-50% increase that will now come in December, 2014 vs. August, 2014. 

Certainly it's great that the 40 million uninsured Americans will now be able to be insured.  Many of them will be subsidized by the government if they fall below a certain income level.  But, with an increase of 30-50% I think that I will be subsidizing the rest.

I'm OK with paying taxes and I'm OK with the taxes paying for healthcare for the elderly, the disabled, the poor.  But, I'm not OK with also paying a for-profit company more than my fair share.  They will be making up for the price of the low-end policy that is subsidized by OBAMACARE by increasing my payment. 

This isn't good for anyone.  I object to this and I am stuck because I need health insurance.  This is really a poor solution. 

Chloe The Princess (snoring pug)

Can one be a princess and snore at the same time.  Yes!  Chloe is the example.

Here she is, alert as usual. No snores now!

But, we've all heard it.  Yes, she snores.  She also purrs.  Like a cat.  These are normal sounds for a pug, but sounds rarely emitted by a princess. 

She thinks she is a princess.  She acts like a princess.  We are at her beck and call.  We all jump when she needs to go out, if she does her "business", she gets a treat.  If she doesn't ,  she gets a treat anyway.  Just for "sit"ting...  Life is good in the kingdom where Chloe lives.  

Chasing Rainbows

The weather has been weird this week.  A large storm that has torn across Northern Europe has also hit Paris.  It's been alternately windy, cold, rainy, sunny, warm; sometimes all at the same time.  Today, I thought there had to be a rainbow out there.   I looked and looked and didn't find one.

Then, on the way home on the bus, I looked out the window and Voila!  There it was!  A gorgeous rainbow.  Remember, this is through a bus window and it was moving. 

This one was taken after I got off the bus (you can see the bus pulling away) on rue de Sevres at Sevres Babylone.

Enjoy.

Do I Look Like A Fool???

In the past week, I have had countless small snubs come my way.  The kind that if you don't listen closely, it will go over your head.  They've come from Americans and French people, so it's not cultural.  It's something else.  I guess it must be me. 

I'll have to examine my method of operating.  Maybe I'm too casual, don't dress properly, smile too freely; I have no idea what it is that's leaving me open to comments of a negative nature.

I had an American woman imply that I could not afford a vacation like the one she had just taken.  I was so astonished (she is a psychotherapist, imagine!) that I was speechless.

Then, I asked a bus driver for directions and he literally didn't answer at all and shooed me off his bus.  Oh well.  Another person recently implied that I couldn't read French well enough to understand an article that he had enjoyed.  Finally, a neighbor today demanded a "Merci" twice from me before I could even respond.  I had to answer that I had heard her the first time and she hadn't given me the time to respond.  Hrmph!

I have also had my successes in places that are otherwise hostile.  I successfully, and without incident, bought a case of champagne today after a long discussion with the shop owner.  But, the man at the kiosk couldn't understand my request for "Le Figaro avec les magazines" even though I buy the same thing every Saturday from the same man.  On the good side, the guy in the grocery store went to his special supply of non-bruised bananas to find me four perfect ones.   The woman in the shoe store found the pair of boots I wanted after thinking she didn't have my size.  Pascal is always great at the tennis shop.

The bad still outweighs the good over the past week.  

I guess I should renew my membership in the "thick skin club". 

Chestnuts

It's that time of year again--I can smell the chestnuts roasting in big pans over high heat.  The smell is between woods-y and something burning.  But I love the smell.

Growing up in California, we never had chestnuts.  Maybe it's not cold enough. 

I don't even like the taste of chestnuts very much. I like the smell and the idea. 

I couldn't resist today and bought a small bag from a woman outside the Luxembourg Gardens.  She measured them out and then gave me a couple extra.  By the time I got them home they were cold, so I had to heat them up again to try them. 

St Jacut de la Mer

The tiny town of St. Jacut de la Mer is so small that it is hard to find on a map of Brittany.  A peninsula that juts into the ocean.  At low tide, you can almost walk across to the other side.  At high tide, the waves lap up against the sea walls. 

They have a small "downtown" with a grocery store, a few shops, even a weekly open-air market. 

There are a few adolescent boys that drive recklessly around town on Vespas, scaring the pedestrians. 

I doubt that many people live here full time.  But, there are enough little gardens and cute little well-kept homes that I could be wrong.

A bus stops once in the morning and once in the evening.  It costs Euro 2 to ride into Dinan, about 30 minutes away.  Otherwise you need to have a car, get a cab, find a friend with a car or walk.

For the second year in a row, we spent a week doing almost nothing.  Beach combing, hiking, breathing deeply to get as much of the cleansing sea air into our lungs. 

It's an ideal way to forget your problems, regroup, recuperate.

Photos from our beach hikes.