Monday, December 29, 2008

Follow Up

A quick follow up about the shop closures due to the holidays

In our neighborhood, it's a ghost town right now. The three bar/restaurants nearby are all closed until after the 5th. The shoe repair is closed, the Presse is closed (as are all the other ones within walking distance). There is a boulangerie that has stayed open during the holiday, thank goodness. I know that other neighborhoods are open. I went to the Champion on rue de Seine on Sunday AM because the 8 a 8 in our neighborhood that's always open on Sunday AM from 8 - 1 was "exceptionally" closed.

Our guardienne is also on vacation. So, every morning, Terry has to go down to the common mailbox and retrieve our newspaper.

Where's my holiday spirit?

Vestiaire Complet

It is freezing outside today. Sunny and beautiful, but bitterly cold.

We decided to go to the Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais to see "Picasso et les Maitres". I have a "Sesame" card that lets us get into the museum, anytime it's open, without waiting in the three-hour line that snakes around the outside of the building. The exposition will close soon and we've been procrastinating.

Entering the building, going through security, no problem. But, then we got to the coat check room (vestiaire). Huge line, not moving.

We waited and waited. When we got close to the front, we saw the sign posted over the heads of the workers that said, "Vestiaire Complet", or "The Coat Check Room is Full". OK, everyone has a huge coat, a scarf, perhaps a hat. What are we supposed to do now? Carry all this around the museum. Wear it all (no to this, it's warm inside).

Then, we watched. Magic. Every time a person went to the other line, the line where people were retrieving their coats, the coat check person simply handed the empty coat hanger to the person taking the coats. One coat returned, one coat checked in. This works for me.

Thursday, December 25, 2008

Merry Christmas, Ralph and Chloe



They don't know they're dogs, they think they are part of the family. So, they are quite concerned when we make Christmas plans without consulting them.

Hopefully, they'll forgive us. They're staying with Noah and Larry, who take excellent care of them (aka spoil them). But the shorties want their routine: Mom wakes up, lets them out, they "do their thing" (no comment) and the day begins.

Now, with Mom in Houston, they have no one to show off to/for. Oh help! We're shorties, we're here to entertain! Where are the guests! Merry Christmas, Ralphy and Chloe, we love you.

Monday, December 22, 2008

My Head Is Falling Off!

I've told Terry this many times. It always has to do with spending too much time in a difficult mental place.

This didn't happen when I was young, I could spend the whole day in school and be fine, but now...

An example: I went to a french movie today, in french. After the movie, I discussed the movie, in french, with a french friend. So, this amounts to about 4 + straight hours in the french language. Of course, this is good for my language skills, and it was a great afternoon. I really, really enjoyed it.

But, as I walked home, I felt that familiar heaviness at the back of my neck. I got to our building, entered, and our friend and neighbor, Jean, was at the elevator. He told me in French about our guardienne, who is on vacation, and a couple of other simple things.

I'd been speaking french for hours, but for some reason, the verbs did not find the nouns and the pronouns and prepositions were gone. Forget adjectives and adverbs, my head is falling off!

I've had enough french for one day, I need English language, a glass of wine (OK if it's french) and some Advil.

Saturday, December 20, 2008

It's Christmas Time!

Feeling good about Christmas, I went about my normal Saturday morning errands.

It's a little warmer, all the better to run around the lovely Vavin area. In our neighborhood "downtown" is a beautiful flower shop (too expensive for me, but I can look...), many shoe, clothing and children's shops, two bakeries, several fast food places (including a Subway). Although the shops are small, I can get everything here.

But, when I got to the Presse (newsstand), the man told me that he is closing on the 22nd for two weeks. Yikes. Where will I get the newspaper? I cannot go to the man on rue de Rennes because he was rude to me. Perhaps I'll have to take a metro just to get the newspaper.

We also give our guardienne, Maria, a Christmas tip every year. She was heading out for vacation after work on Saturday. Normally, she works until noon. So, at about 11, I knocked on her door. The shutters were closed, no answer. I tried again, a little louder, no answer. So, I put our generous cash gift into my purse. No panic here, since, literally, anyone could do her job better than she does it and we only give her a tip to assure that the service level doesn't slide even lower. (Last week, she delivered an important Fed Ex package of mine to another apartment and then denied doing it until we tracked it to her signature).

Well, Merry Christmas.

I've started a new blog for the WICE conversation groups, be sure to check it out when you have a chance at http://wiceconversation.blogspot.com/

Mary and I will update all the latest happenings on this site.

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Panic In The Streets of Paris

You must know that I don't mean due to the bomb scare at the Printemps department store yesterday.

On my way home from the gym today, I stopped at the flower shop and bought some beautiful white tulips. Then, I went to the best bakery in the neighborhood for some bread. It was close to noon, so there was a line going down the street. When I got to the door, I saw the sign that said that they would be closed from December 24 through January 4th. "Have a Nice Holiday".

Have a nice holiday -- OK, that's easy for them to say -- they are on vacation, but I'm here, without food!

Paranoia is setting in. Will all the stores be closed, or just the good ones? I guess I can't be picky at Christmas, I'll have to take whatever dregs of food are around, mainly the food from the corner "Alimentation" which costs a fortune, and, they are rude.

With this in mind, I grabbed Terry and we made a dash to the butcher's, which re-opens after lunch at 3PM. We ordered something nice for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. Then, on to the wine store, where we stocked up on enough champagne to last us through the long holiday weeks. I'm feeling a little more relaxed.

We've never been in Paris for Christmas. We're used to being in Manhattan Beach, where Ralph's is open 24/7. So, if I run out of something vital at 6 PM on Christmas night, they will be open, with plenty of stuff to help me get through the night.

During my normal evening round of errands, I stopped in at a few shops to ask them about their plans for the holiday. From everyone I got an air of extreme surprise at my question and these responses: "Of course, we'll be open, as usual" "Why would you ask?" "We won't be on holiday".

OK, do I believe them or not? Of course not. I guarantee you that on December 23rd, they will be shutting their doors, turning off their lights and pulling down the shutters.

Planning to open again on January 5th!

Monday, December 15, 2008

Greetings From The White House


The Last Of It's Kind



This came in the mail today. It's not very high quality. Given the economy, I can understand this. And, I don't think that George and Laura signed it themselves. They've got better things to do with their time right now.

But, this is the first time I've gotten a card from The White House.

No idea why I got it, but it was kind of fun to see the return address when I received it.

Thanks, George W and Laura.

Friday, December 12, 2008

Barak Obama, Girl

It is freezing outside today, truly, around 0. After my workout, I took a shower and while I was drying my hair, my hair dryer quit working. It's happened before and has started to happen more and more frequently. Today, it would not re-start.

I had to be at WICE in an hour! The trip takes 35-45 minutes, depending. (On what, you ask -- well, it's any and all the french things that happen like traffic jams, suicides on the metro, strikes, etc).

So, I put my hair in a pony tail, kissed Terry goodbye, grabbed my Carte Bleue and off I went in search of a Monoprix on the way to WICE. I knew I'd seen one, so I just kept my eyes open and when I saw it, I got off the bus and went in.

Unfortunately, this Monoprix, 76 rue Lecourbe in the 15th is supersized, as big as Cost Co in the US. I had about 5 minutes to spare.

I ran in, found a woman who worked there and asked (not knowing the actual term in french for hair dryer) "where are the machines that you use to dry the hair?" The woman looked up, said hello and asked where I was from. I said the US. So, she said to me, "Barak Obama, girl!", which I guessed was a compliment. She gave me very detailed instructions to the hair dryer aisle, I found a nice one and got to WICE on time.

The Dogs Of Fontainebleau

Since I love dogs, here are a few photos of dogs from the chateau.




There are big dogs, and small dogs represented in the many paintings.



Pampered dogs that never went outside.



And dogs that had jobs.

Marie Antoinette's Chair



We visited Fontainebleau yesterday. The chateau dates back to 1137, according to the book they gave us. Every room is incredible. Each king and queen left his or her own mark on the chateau, as witnessed by the various rooms adorned with F (Francois I) or H (Henri IV).

Several rooms were redecorated by Marie Antoinette. Evidently, Fontainebleau was not ransacked the way Versailles was during the French Revolution. So, here's one of Marie Antoinette's chairs, a small look at an opulent life of beautiful excess.

Sunday, December 7, 2008

The Smile

I'm from California. So, I smile all the time, even when I'm not happy or feeling the least bit friendly. It's just in my blood, I guess.

Smiles are never returned in France. If I have to smile for some reason, I just avoid making eye contact. Then, I'm in my own little smile world. This has worked fairly well so far, avoiding unreturned smiles which could start to become a bit depressing.

Today is Sunday. The streets are pretty empty on Sunday mornings, especially when it's this cold out. I was out walking in the neighborhood, going to pick up a few veggies, the newspaper and a baguette. The street was deserted. A woman appeared, walking in the opposite direction. She looked like a normal middle-aged French woman to me.

As she approached, I noticed that she was smiling. She was looking directly at me with a big smile on her face. Confusion and a bit of panic scrambled my early-morning reverie. Should I smile back? Should I look the other way? She must want something from me. Does she look homeless? Crazy? I couldn't decide what to do fast enough, so I smiled back. Not a big smile, just a bit of a smile. Then I looked away, just in case.

The moment I looked away, she passed me, yelling out, "Bonjour Andre, ça va?" I looked behind me, and about three paces back was Andre, the object of the smile.

I don't think she even noticed my smile, she was so focused on Andre. I'll have to be more careful in the future.

Saturday, December 6, 2008

WICE Sing Along



We had our annual Noel sing along yesterday at WICE. Here's a taste of our group. It was a wonderful evening of conversation, music and good food.

Parking In Paris



When I learned to drive, my sister and I would laugh hysterically when I was trying to park the car, an old manual transmission car with no emergency brake. We called my attempts, "parking by sound". This means that when you tap the bumper of the car in front or in back of you, it is time to change direction. You gently tap, front and back until you finally get the car into the space. Hopefully, no one came along while this activity was going on.

My early parking attempts would fit right in here in Paris. No one would bat an eye if I used my parking method. In fact, people prepare for it, as I found out today when I spotted this little beauty outside our building. Since it doesn't really have bumpers and it is quite small, I think this is a great solution. I wish I'd thought of it sooner!

Friday, December 5, 2008

An Aubergine by any other name...



During our conversation group on Tuesday, one of the french participants was telling the group about a meal he had in Marseilles recently. It included "aubergines". I love eggplant and could eat it every day, but Terry doesn't like it very much, so we have it only occasionally. I wonder why he doesn't like it, maybe it's the name. We speak English at home, so when I serve "aubergine" it is really "eggplant".

The conversation continued when a French woman asked me (the only Anglophone), "what is aubergine in English?" I replied, "eggplant". There was a flurry of quick french chatter among the french participants, most of which I couldn't understand. But, I guessed that it had to do with my answer.

I asked them what they were talking about and they asked me again to say the word "eggplant". So I repeated it, trying to say it slowly in case they weren't understanding. After this, one of the woman said, "Non! that is definately not the translation for aubergine, you have made an error".

Back and forth we went. Yes, this word is really the translation. No, it can't be, it's such an ugly word, "eggplant". OK, I get it. We are a group of aubergine lovers! It is a beautiful word and a beautiful fruit. (Actually, it's classified as a berry botanically, according to my internet sources).

I finally had to produce a dictionary to assure my survival in the group.

The word "eggplant" is rather homely, I admit. Perhaps this is why Americans don't eat more eggplant. It sounds yuccy. I suggest we should immediately change the name, world-wide to aubergine.

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Recycling, Paris-Style



So, this doesn't look like much, but it is the glass bottle recycling for our building. The recycling can itself is full, so we've had to add our bottles in plastic bags for the "guys" to pick up.

The interesting ideas about this are: 1) everyone in the building takes the glass recycling seriously 2) there are a LOT of bottles in our recycling considering how few people live in our building 3) the amazing recycling truck that picks up this load.

Where do I start? First we have several trash cans to choose from. The big green topped cans are for normal, household trash. This is picked up every day of the week except Sunday. Next, the yellow topped can which is for (weirdly enough: paper and cardboard, plastics and small household appliances) sorry, no idea how this all works! The last bin is the skinny, white-topped trash can that is earmarked for glass. In Paris, most of the contents of this can consists of wine and beer bottles. Oops! Why is this can always overflowing? Are people too eager to recycle? Or...

I was surprised that there is a special truck for the glass recycling. I watched the truck today. It arrives and the workers put the cans on a platform. Two fit at one time. Then a mechanism in the truck lifts the cans slowly over the back of the truck, eventually turning the cans upside-down and emptying the contents into the truck. Voila! Crash-Crash-Crash! All the bottles tumble loudly into the truck, the cans arrive on the sidewalk and the truck moves on.

All the ills of yesterday are erased and the can is empty, ready for today's bottles.

Monday, November 10, 2008

Le Pont


Le Pont is "the bridge" which is used to mean that a holiday is extended on either side of a weekend to get the maximum number of days off. November 11 (Tuesday) is a holiday. It never occurred to me that this would create a "pont" of four days, stopping me from doing a lot of important things.

Saturday, I tried to go shopping for some kitchen items I needed and tickets to two expositions. Shut down by massive crowds, I went home, empty-handed and tired. I had no idea why it was so crowded at the time.

Sunday was Sunday, nothing open, I'm used to that.

Monday rolled around, all should be normal, I thought. But, as I walked to the gym, most things were closed. Hmmm, what is going on? Then, I remembered, Tuesday is a holiday so everyone is making it a four-day weekend. Aargh! I guess I'll survive one more day, especially since I was completely innocent of these four days until this morning.

Friday, November 7, 2008

Much To Our Surprise

Another water crisis!

I turned on the water in the kitchen sink, around 8:30 AM and a trickle came out.

TER-REEEE! The water is off!

So, Terry went down to to check on it and sure enough, our water is off again today.

Monday, November 3, 2008

How Many Days Has It Been?

I bet you thought we were still without water. No, we're on to the next crisis.

I hate to whine all the time, but now we've had a holiday on Saturday (Toussaint) followed by Sunday (stores are closed) followed by Monday (many stores are closed and if they're not, they're closed from 12 noon until 2 or 2:30 PM).

Where does this leave me?

Hungry, without clean clothes and without a newspaper. Whine, whine!!!

I don't know how the small stores survive. On Saturday, I didn't take the holiday too seriously, since Saturday is a very big shopping day for people who work. Many, not all stores were closed. Sunday of course, nothing changes, most places are closed except a few small "Alimenation" which charge a fortune. I use them only if I am desperate for an ingredient.

But, Monday, I thought the world would "right' itself and things would be open. Ah ha! The things that are normally closed are closed. The things (like the grocery store, Franprix) that are open, are not well-stocked because they've been closed.

I had to "dig deep" to cook dinner tonight and I am not happy.

Odile says that all of this is historic and hard to change. All I can say is, "where are the French entrepreneurs?" Those people who want to work extra-hard to earn more money? I guess they're at the cemetery visiting their loved ones or at their country house, closing it up for the winter.

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Day Four of the Water Crisis

This was supposed to be a 4-hour project.

Now we are into the fourth day without water in the building.

Sunday, October 26, 2008

Day Three of the Water Crisis

As if our weekend wasn't stressful enough, we think that the water is going to be off in the entire building again tomorrow. I say "think" because there is no notice posted.

It seems that the syndic posts the notice that something "will happen" after it has "already happened".

Do they have a problem with verb tenses too?

So, in preparation (this is the third time now), I've filled bottles with filtered water and a tub with water for hand washing. We will take showers before 8 AM because the plumbers don't arrive until after 9 (except the first day when they arrived for the planned time of 8:30 at 2 PM instead). Better safe than sorry like the first day.

So, we're prepared for whatever the plumbers throw our way.

Friday, October 24, 2008

Day Two of the Water Crisis

We thought that the plumbing work in the building was done last night. I used our stored water on the plants. Ho-hum.

Until this morning, when I tried to wash a dish and the water trickled out again. Back downstairs, where the plumber told us that, indeed, the water is off today until 5 PM and on Monday all day as well.

In need of a shower, I went to the gym. But Terry has no gym membership, so he is off to the tennis club. Luckily we have somewhere to go for a shower.

I am now down to one Brita pitcher full of water.

Thursday, October 23, 2008

My Next Drawing- Art WILL Imitate Life











Today in my art class, we each had to draw our own hand and after that, a dry, brown leaf. The hand was hard, the leaf was really, really hard.



Even though the teacher thinks my art doesn't resemble life enough, I am pleased with my drawings so far and with the progress I've made.

We'll get into the philosophy of all this at a later date.

I have to practice drawing things correctly, as they really are, quite a challenge for me. So, best to select something easy, with not too many angles. Here's my next subject. If you don't see this drawing soon, or if this entire post disappears, you'll know what happened.

French Frustrations



Today, I waited for the #70 bus during the morning rush hour. Aren't there supposed to be more busses during rush hour vs. less? I waited for a mere 20 minutes, not knowing if the bus would ever show up, since the little electronic sign that tells when the next bus should arrive has been out of order for two weeks.

This particular bus stop is at a very busy intersection: Sevres Babylone.

You'd think someone would notice the 25 people huddled under the non-functioning sign...

This minor inconvenience didn't stop/nor ruin my day. In fact, another woman was even tardier than I was to our drawing class this morning, cursing a completely different traffic delay.

This takes me back to my photo above. The sign has been posted for a week on the door to our building. It says that the water to the building will be turned off between 8:30 AM and 1 PM today, October 23, 2008. No problem. We filled a couple extra bottles with water and went about our day.

I was surprised that at 1:30 PM when I got home from class, the water was on. Terry said it was never turned off. So, we figured that maybe it was turned off for such a short period of time that it wasn't even noticed.

Problem solved.

Oh yeah? (These last two sentences reflect my mind at work...)

At 2 PM, we went to wash the lunch dishes and only a trickle of water came out of the brand-new kitchen faucet. After investigating, we found out that there was a "delay" this morning with the plumber, and he had just turned the water off now, expecting it to be back on by 5:30 PM tonight, a mere 4-1/2 hours late.

I'm wondering if the plumber perhaps tried to take the #70 bus during rush hour and just arrived on the job at 2 PM.

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

WICE Conversation Groups Continue!



We started out, about a month ago, with 15 people, and we were all thrilled with the turnout.

You see, last spring, WICE conversation groups faced extinction. But we came back. These photos are from today. We had 36 people today and the same number last Friday. And the best part is that each day, we're getting new people who join the groups. They all love the atmosphere, the sharing of cultures and language and, of course the comraderie. Friendships develop over time.

It's been a wonderful comeback for the WICE conversation groups.




Now that we're re-established, we're on to other things. We're now planning our annual Noel soiree -- singing and potluck. We hope to get 100 people to attend. Photos to come.

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

Art Class, Are My Motives Pure?

I'm starting an art class on Thursday. I've always wanted to take an art class but I'm not sure if my motives are pure. Sure, I would like to be able to draw and eventually paint. I like watercolors, they are nuanced and light. I do not think I'm at all talented, or I would have stumbled upon an art class before now.

What I like most about the art class, so far, is the art supplies.

I got the list of things I needed for the class. It was in english and french. I couldn't understand most of the english, let alone the french. The french was on the page so that the students can take the supplies list to an art store and have someone help get the right stuff.

So, I dragged Terry with me to the art supplies store yesterday afternoon. I had to promise him a beer at the end of the trip.

Shopping was a great success, now, I want everything in the store! The paints, the pastels, the paper! It's all too beautiful. The choices are incredible.

For example, pastels come in thick and thin, round and square. How do I know what I want? We are only allowed to buy black right now, what a shame. There are millions of colors to choose from. Each different pastel is in a separate little wooden cubby hole in a very large wooden box. They are organized by color and by brand and by size.

Luckily for me, I have to go back to another store, because one of the things I needed was out of stock at the first store. I get to go back tomorrow! I think I need to get something called a "cutter". Terry thought this was a pencil sharpener, but I think it is a knife, so I may need two things! Hurray!

So far, I'm enjoying the class, at least the art supplies part.

Saturday, October 11, 2008

Il fait beau

We've had a burst of autumn sun for the last two days, so I've been out trying to take advantage of the festive atmosphere. The cafes are packed, glasses of wine and beer are on almost every table.

Everyone's face is lifted toward the sun. Ankles are bared. This might be the last chance for a sunny day for many, many months.

I hit the streets and the shops this afternoon.

Saturday is a busy day, since most shops are closed on Sunday. The streets were jammed. My friends in Paris say that people are shopping but not buying. I shopped a lot and bought a little, certainly not enough to stimulate any economy.

The french know how to enjoy a pretty day. For the price of a cup of coffee, you can occupy a table in the sun for as long as you want. On a day like this, people-watching is a great way to spend an hour or two.

I hope it's sunny tomorrow, since I didn't get enough of it today.

Thursday, October 9, 2008

Tennis Club du 16eme



It's almost time for the tennis club to cover all the courts for six months, so I took photos today of the lovely red clay courts. It was a beautiful fall day today. Sunny, but cool. A perfect day for tennis, and everyone else thought so, too. The courts were filled every hour.

We are enjoying playing on the red clay, much easier on the body than a hard court. But, dirtier.

Part of the charm of this small club (8 courts) is that the grounds surrounding the courts are overgrown. I can see last year's iris leaves still in the ground and there are grape vines which produce some lovely black grapes which are put in a little dish for the members to try. On the weekend, people sit in lounge chairs, their faces toward the sun. Mothers bring their dogs with them to watch their children's tennis practice.

But, the best part is that it's quiet. There are no children running around and screaming. No one swears after missing the ball. No one slams their racquet into the net. Everyone leaves the court on time, after sweeping the red clay clean.

Thursday, October 2, 2008

Lost In The Translation, Non!

Today, I had a meeting with another Anglophone, although she isn't American, she is Scottish. (More on this later)

We met at a lovely cafe, La Terrasse, at Ecole Militaire, which is a crossroads point in Paris (one of many). While we speak the same language (American English vs. Scottish English), we might still be from different planets.

When I left, I felt like we had not accomplished anything and I'm sure that she felt the same way. I think we both tried to finalize things for our respective goals, but between being polite (yes, I forced myself) and being strangers, we didn't come up with an action plan that would get us to the next step.

I'm not sure if she knows this or not... (She doesn't know about the blog, thank God)

So, I'll try to proceed according to what I think I agreed to do and she will proceed along the agreement that she thinks she made. Hopefully, at some point in the future, our goals will be consistent and we will be happy that we met and had such good communication skills.

OK, the "Scottish" thing -- this is really embarrassing to write, but... When we were first in Paris, in September, 2002, at the brink of the US invasion into Iraq, the US vs. French relationship was not very good. The Americans thought that the French should back the Americans simply because we helped the French during WWII. The French didn't think that the "war" was justified and didn't accept the American pressure to join forces.

To point out the obvious, Americans were not popular in France at that time.

To complicate things, my french language skills were limited to the present tense and some very common pleasantries.

One day, during the height of American/French distaste, I got into the elevator in our building on rue de Seine, with a neighbor. Remember that French elevators are so small that two people in one elevator will almost certainly have a small amount of intimate contact (at least a shoulder or hip) unless they are anorexic or are midgets.

The man, very nicely asked me in french, "Are you Scottish?"

My life flashed before my eyes! An excuse! I'm not American, I'm Scottish!!! Hurray!

So, I said, "Yes, I'm Scottish, nice to meet you" then he arrived at his floor and got off.

I'm sure that eventually word got around (small building, all French except us) that we were really Americans. Oh well.

Friday, September 26, 2008

It Continues

Today, Washington Mutual (WAMU) was shut down by the Feds and then acquired by JP Morgan/Chase. I saw this info on the TV at the gym (Club Med Gym, Montparnasse). The gym has many gorgeous, large flat screen TVs but they have no sound, so you have to read the sub-titles. So, I read about my bank, WAMU.

Since I had no ability to do anything, change anything, I just continued my workout, but with a little bit more tension in my neck.

When I got home, I checked the internet and it is true. It continues!

Where will it stop?

We went to our WICE conversation group in the afternoon and tried to explain it to the french.
Why did we have adjustable rate loans? Everyone knows this is stupid.
Why did people try to borrow more than they could pay back? Ditto.
Why did the banks sell, repackage and resell these loans, each time making money, but making the entire system weaker? Ditto
Why are Americans so interested in having so much stuff? Why can't they just enjoy their lives?

I can't justify it, I can only explain it.

Thursday, September 18, 2008

Apocalypse NOW

The sky is falling.

It’s all happening at once.

First, Hurricane IKE hits Texas. My sister lives in Houston and lost power (it’s still out after 5 days with an ETA of at least 5 more days), water and a large window. Impossible to live in the house, as it is 100 degrees and 100 % humidity and there’s no air conditioning. The people waiting in gas lines are protected by the police. Everyone is lining up for FEMA handouts of ice and water.

The hurricane itself was pretty scary, according to my sister, but the aftermath is worse. The streets are littered, windows are broken, there is no security for their house. They stayed with friends, then in a hotel. Every meal is in a restaurant or at someone’s home that has gotten their power back. She says that there are streets where one side has power and the other side doesn’t.

And, if that’s not enough, now the financial markets are tumbling. Lehman Brothers, an historic and honorable company has filed for bankruptcy. We have holdings with the company, but I see that 25,000 employees will be without jobs and there will be many more shareholders who are "holding the bag" after the day is done.

AIG was almost next. Merrill was bought by B of A. Where will it end?

I've forgotten to mention that our friends could not get to Paris from London because the Channel Tunnel had a fire in it over the weekend is only operating at 30% capacity.

Luckily, the cave is filled with "grocery store' variety Bordeaux, a small compensation for our week's losses. We’ll all recover, somehow.

Saturday, September 13, 2008

Hurricane IKE

is scaring me.

My sister lives in Houston.

Hard to be in Paris and watch it all on CNN

Saturday, September 6, 2008

Solving The Mystery of Life

In my jet lagged state, I've been lying in bed (4 AM) trying to remember what kinetic energy is.

The Garbage Disposer (or lack thereof...)

I think that Americans take the garbage disposer for granted.

I've always had one.

When there are leftovers such as carrot tops, tomato stems, eggshells or other stuff to get rid of, I just put them down the left-hand side of the sink, flick the switch, hit the cold water and it's all gone... down the drain!

Not in France.

We've just returned after a long trip to the US. I've gotten used to that silly garbage disposal. It takes care of just about everything. (No artichoke leaves, celery stings or walnut shells, please).

Tonight, after dinner, I've been busily picking up stray strands of pasta, tomato seeds, etc, making sure that it doesn't go down the drain, possibly clogging it.

I don't think that the garbage disposal appliance is available in France. I do know that I miss having one.

Monday, September 1, 2008

First Crop -- 2013



It started out as a seed. Aidan, who loves avocados, ate it two summers ago. I decided to try to grow a plant from it.

I put toothpicks into the center of the seed and placed it in a glass of water in a sunny spot in the kitchen. Within weeks, roots started to appear. After a few more weeks, a small stem broke through the top of the seed.

Over the course of two years, I've kept it in the sunny spot, and when we're gone, Neda kept the glass full of water. I counted the leaves as they emerged, one, two, pretty soon there were eight or nine.

Last summer, I thought it was time to plant the avocado in the yard. I went to the nursery for information. The nursery woman told me that there were still many steps that needed to be completed before planting.

First, I would need to transfer the plant to a pot. She told me what type of soil, food, and when to water it.

She also told me something very important. Avocados need sun, but it must be acclimated slowly. Over the last year, I've moved the plant in and out of the sun, giving it a little more time outside each day. This summer, it stayed outside all the time and it has flourished.


Safely in the ground

Yesterday it was time. Terry cleared a place in the sunniest spot we have. It has an ocean view, a nice extra. We watered the plant and planted it. So far, so good.

The woman at the nursery told me that it takes seven years for an avocado to produce fruit. I guess that means we should have our first crop in about five more years now.

Sunday, August 31, 2008

Grocery Shopping On Line

All the big stores in Paris now have the capability that allows customers to order groceries on-line. After ordering, you can have the groceries delivered or pick the order up.

You can also go to the store, do the shopping and leave the cart and your credit card number and someone will deliver the groceries later.

I've taken advantage of the delivery system several times. It doesn't work perfectly as they won't deliver big items. But, what's the point, I can carry the small stuff myself.

We are arriving in Paris on a Saturday. After an 11 hour flight a long cab ride and all the airport hassles, I will be really tired. Too tired to run out to the grocery store. But, the stores are closed on Sunday, so if I don't go on Saturday, we will be eating canned tuna for two days.

Yesterday I had a brain storm -- I went to the site "Coursengo" which is actually the on-line store for Leader Price and Franprix. The site was easy to get through and I put together a nice list of items that would tide us through the weekend. I was excited. (Notice the past tense usage here, it's not an error...)

I went to the checkout section and discovered that the latest delivery time frame that they offer on Saturday is noon to 2 PM. I was hoping for a nice 5 PM delivery, but it's not available on Saturday. So, I had to put the entire order into a "list", saving it for another day. And, I'll have to hit the grocery store on Saturday afternoon (the most crowded time of the week) in my jet-lagged state. At least I have my list done. I think I can print it and take it with me.

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

What Will I Be Wearing In December?

As I pack my bags to return to Paris after a long absence (23 weeks to be exact), I am faced with the necessity to be clairvoyant.

What do I need to bring with me for the next few months? It's hot and sunny here, so I have to imagine that it's cold, rainy and dark. Then, I have to find these things in stores in Southern California in August.

It's all because of the Euro vs. the dollar, a popular blog complaint for me. Today I changed dollars at the fantastic rate of $1.497. I was elated until I realized that two years ago, it was at $1.18.

Even if the exchange rate were lower, I would probably try to buy most of my clothes in the US. It is much easier to shop with a car nearby. I get so tired trying to shop in Paris. And, if I buy a lot of stuff, I have to cart it all home.

I was regaling my sister with stories about our first days in Paris when we had to equip our apartment from scratch. We bought pillows, blankets, sheets, towels, bathmats, dishes, pots and pans and utensils in one outing at Montparnasse. We didn't know it would be hard to get a cab and we were so loaded down that we couldn't walk more than 10 steps without dropping something. We waited at a cab stand, no cab. We called a cab, no cab.

Other people got in line behind us, all with their own ideas about how to get cabs. It probably took 45 minutes for a cab to come and we were very grateful to get all our bounty back to our apartment.

This, of course, was in the days of the $0.98 Euro. Those days are gone forever, I fear.

Thursday, August 7, 2008

A Sunny Day, My God-Given Right

In Southern California, it is sunny almost every day. I wake up in the morning and even if there are some morning clouds or fog (we live at the beach), it is clear and sunny by noon.

I get a bit unhappy if it is cloudy, cold or humid even for one day. I guess I'm a bit spoiled.

I adjust my expectations for Paris and never have such a demanding requirement for the weather. Like everyone else, I take an umbrella and my sunglasses with me everywhere I go. During a one hour outing, I could have the need for both of them.

I have just returned from San Diego for a family visit. San Diego is normally sunnier and warmer than the LA area. But, there have been a series of tropical storms that sent clouds, hot weather and humidity into the area. For three days, we struggled with very little sunshine. I felt sorry for all the vacationers who were trying to go to the beach or enjoy an afternoon poolside. It's not as much fun if you can't see your shadow.

In Manhattan Beach, everyone takes the good weather for granted. No one rushes to the beach because the weather will be equally good tomorrow. No one carries an umbrella, even if it's threatening rain. Sunglasses are ubiquitous and many people have a wardrobe of sunglasses. A sunny day is normal, it is our god-given right!

On the first sunny day of spring in Paris, it doesn't matter if it's a Tuesday or a Sunday, everyone is outside. The cafes are filled, there are no empty chairs in the parks, everyone is out walking. People the world over love a sunny day, it's just that some of us take it for granted.

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Obsessive Euro Watching

We need to change our dollars into Euros. We've been waiting since February when the exchange rate was a mere $1.35. We thought that was too high! Now, with the Euro peaking at $1.60, the February exchange looks great.

Maybe the US economy has bottomed out. Oil prices are going down. So goes the Euro. Today, I'm looking at $1.54. Am I being greedy to hope for $1.53 before I run to the bank?

I've been watching the Euro prices on a website called OANDA. They post the exchange rate with updates like the stock market, delayed by a few minutes. I go to this website every few minutes when I'm at my computer. The hundredths of a cent difference up or down punctuate my day, positive or negative.

Today, it's a good day.

Tuesday, August 5, 2008

The Countdown List

We have been in the US an exceptionally long time. It will be 24 weeks by the time we leave.

I haven't spent a lot of time or effort thinking about our return, until now.

I keep a running list/inventory of things I need, things I have, things I've taken to and from Paris in a little red notebook. This is actually Notebook #2. I've started to review the book and make a list of the things I'll need to buy. The packing of items to be returned comes later.

My sister, Karen, read the list last week and laughed at me because I had written the word, "outfits" on the list of things to be purchased. What's wrong with that? I certainly understand that this means items that are purchased, usually together, that can be thrown on in an instant, without thinking, and I will look "put together". It's easier to buy an "outfit" than to try to figure out an "ensemble" each time I have to go out. An "outfit" can be a suit, a pair of pants and a top, a skirt, blouse, scarf, etc. I prefer to at least know what shoes I will wear with each "outfit" too, since hemming and socks/hose must be available, too.

But, buying an "outfit" isn't that easy. It is often serendipity that plays a role. So, I have to do my homework, ie hit the stores! The pressure is on, because we have a busy month planned. I wish I'd started a bit sooner.

On a good note, I had also written "jeans" on the list. Those are not as hard as "outfits" to find, but finding a nice pair isn't easy or cheap. Karen helped with this item last Friday when I bought a great pair of jeans. One item, checked off The Countdown List. "Outfits" still to be found and purchased and my sister has gone home to Houston, so I have no one to help me find my "outfits".

Friday, July 25, 2008

Which America Is He Talking About?

Barak Obama is on a grand tour of the middle east and Europe right now. I've been impressed with his determination to meet with world leaders and hear what they have to say. It is good that he is building bridges even if he doesn't win the election, it will serve our country well.

The television news anchors have been interviewing him all week, sometimes asking tough questions. Obama has been poised, answered the questions politely and hasn't been tripped up. Imagine being in a different country every day, meeting with different people who speak a variety of languages, dealing with a different agenda at each stop. Top this all off with jet lag, it's a recipe for disaster.

I'm not making excuses, since he's done pretty well.

However, I was watching a news conference today with Obama and Sarkozy in Paris. I could tell it was Paris immediately by the background. The walls were gilded and the room was very french-looking, fancy and beautiful.

During the speech, Obama continually referred to the name of our country (The USA) as "America".

But, which America is he talking about? North America, Central America, or South America. It could have even been Latin America.

How egocentric can this sound to a European audience that is well-schooled in geography? Aren't we trying to avoid this kind of thinking as we decide who is going to lead our country for the next four or more years.

I'm sure that everyone in the crowd figured out that he meant the US, but let's be clear: to a crowd of foreigners, we are The United States of America, the US or simply "the states".

The world is ready for change. I believe that change starts when we stop thinking that we're the strongest country, the richest country, the smartest country, the only country. I sent an email to the Obama headquarters this afternoon and received an automatic response saying that the campaign gets too many emails to respond (I would guess that it won't be read either). But, I talked to them before I blogged, just to be fair.

I am still undecided about my vote for president. I'll keep watching and listening, as the entire country, The United States of America, is doing.

Thursday, July 24, 2008

What Californians Are Wearing This Summer



By law, this is what all Californians must wear if they want to talk on the phone and drive at the same time.

I've had one for awhile, but it is not great. I can't hear very well with it. It hurts my ear. I lose it at least once a day. I am not very good at turning it on and off.

The legislation was designed to make driving safer. I agree with this idea. I have had several near-collisions with folks driving with one hand and holding the phone in the other hand.

Opponents to this law say that even though a person isn't holding the phone while talking, they are still not paying attention to the road. You also have to dial the phone occasionally, which requires you to look at the phone, not the road. This isn't outlawed yet, perhaps because it would be hard to enforce.

The weirdest thing about these hands-free devices is that people use the hands-free feature when they're walking around, sitting on a bench, or relaxing on the beach. I can no longer tell with a quick glance if a person is simply having a phone conversation or is in the midst of a psychotic episode.

Unless it is dark, I can't tell the difference until I can hear a few words. If it's dark, I can see the silly blue flashing light on the side of the ear piece.

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

French Customer Service



Your service will be restored in 7 to 10 days, please call back if it isn't working after 10 days

In France, it is easier to get to a customer service rep, but you have to pay for the phone call and it is about 34 cents a minute. If you really have a problem that can't be solved, you can easily rack up Euro 50 to get the problem fixed. I heard that companies were going to stop charging for customer service calls, but we have been charged for them (France Telecom) recently.

In any case, the method of not addressing the problem is different from the US, but the result is the same, time lost by the customer while the problem persists.

One case is our television channels. We ordered and paid for a "bouquet" of programs from France Telecom but we couldn't get them on the TV. After several trips to the France Telecom/Orange store, several different cards for the TV and maybe 8 calls to customer service, they told us that we had to wait 7 to 10 days to get the channels.

Silly us, we waited patiently, checking every day for 10 days. During this time, we were paying for our "bouquet" of 400 channels and we were getting about 5 -- the french "free" channels plus CNN and Euronews.

At the end of the 10 days, Terry went into Terry-motion. He wrote a letter to the key execs at France Telecom explaining our problem. Within a few days, we had a phone call from someone at FT and our stations were restored.

What does it take to get companies to deliver reasonable customer service for their products?

American Customer Service


Or, the customer is always "on hold"

In the last two days, I've had two unsuccessful attempts at dealing with telephone customer service.

The two companies involved are Bank of America and Merrill Lynch, but I'm sure I could call just about any company's customer service number and get routed from place to place for 30 minutes or more.

I tried Bank of America yesterday because I had an online CD that just disappeared off my account listing on line and the people at the branch couldn't help since I had purchased the CD on line. I bought it on line because it had a better rate of return.

I looked on the internet and called the number they listed: 800-432-XXXX. A nice person came on the line after about a 5 minute wait. She told me that I had to call a different number, 800-622-XXXX. Another 5 + minute wait before I got a human on the line, but when I did, the woman told me (yet again) that this is not the correct number, that I should call 800-242-XXXX. I got another rep after another wait on the phone. He told me he would transfer me to another number, 877-838-XXXX, but in transferring, he cut me off, so I had to call again. Now I was starting to run late, so I waited on the line for about 5 minutes and hung up. I re-called the previous number and was told that the absolutely, positively correct phone number is really 888-XXX-XXXX. I got a nice man on the phone, Jeremy, who explained that my CD would show up tomorrow on line, to just check back.

The Merrill Lynch phone run-around is a very similar story. Unfortunately, I had to get my rep involved, which is a waste of his time as well as mine.

In this case, I couldn't get on line access to my accounts, so I called the number:800-637-XXXX. A person, Jessica, told me that the system was down. I responded that I had accessed two other accounts on line, before and after trying this one. She stuck with her response.

Feeling that this answer was a brush off, I called the same number again, got Steven on the phone who asked me a couple of questions, told me he was going to put me on hold for a minute, but much to my surprise, he transferred me to the branch. I left a message and tried the number again, this time getting Joe who also put me on hold for such a long time that I finally hung up.

It's now been more than an hour and the on line system still cannot be accessed.

I have now spent more than an hour of my time calling 800 numbers only to get no satisfaction or information.

Monday, July 21, 2008

A Bad Summer For My French Skills

When we left Paris, I was really on a roll. I no longer had a "deer in the headlights" look on my face every time someone spoke to me in French. I usually could even compose an answer without too many errors. But, without constant practice, this new-found fluency has been slipping away all summer.

I've made attempts to maintain my level. But, even this has been difficult. I signed up for lessons at Savior Faire in Redondo Beach just as they were taking their early summer month-long vacation. So, I had a month without classes.

So, I signed up for their summer program, which runs through July and August. The first week of class, there were a lot of familiar faces from years of taking french classes. The teacher was my first french teacher, Oahiba, who is smart, patient and knows how to keep the class moving forward. So, we were optimistic that it would be a good summer, language-wise.

But, last Tuesday we had a new teacher, Jennefer. The only nice thing I can say about her was that she is french. We'll leave it at that.

I was hopeful that this was a substitute teacher situation and one of the regulars would appear the following week. But, I just called the school and we are stuck with her for the rest of the summer.

Just as I was getting really frustrated, I reminded myself that I now have learned enough vocabulary words that I know many synonyms. So, maybe I shouldn't be so hard on myself.

When I first started to learn french, I avoided learning two words that mean the same thing, thinking that I needed as much diversity as possible. But, that was before the day that a simple word almost cost me my dinner.

We were in St Jean Cap Ferrat. Just like in Paris, most grocery stores are closed on Sunday. We had nothing for dinner that night and wanted to eat at home. So, when we were driving home from the tennis club, we spotted a bucherie that was open. There was a long line, but that's normal when everything else in town is closed for the day.

Terry was driving, so he said he'd circle the block (no parking) and I should go in and get a poulet roti. Good plan.

I jumped out of the car and got in line. I was the only person in tennis clothes, which got a few stares. When I finally got to the front of the line, I confidently ordered a poulet roti. The butcher asked, "Vous avez commandé le poulet?" I stared. I didn't know the word "commander" and that was the key word in the sentence. He repeated the question. I started to sweat. Finally, I squeaked out a very little, almost inaudible "Non".

With this answer, he walked away. He eventually came back with a chicken in his hand, he wrapped it up, I paid and left, head held high that I had accomplished the mission, no matter how awkward the exchange.

In the car, I tell Terry the whole ugly story, and he informed me that "commander" means "to order", which makes perfect sense. But, I've always used the word, "reserver" meaning "to reserve" when it comes to ordering food. The words really mean the same thing, but since I had my rule of learning only one word, and the butcher used another word, I was out of luck.

So, it pays to keep studying. I'll have to get creative and find a way to keep up with my verb tenses, pronouns and vocabulary (sometimes even a synonym or two).

Saturday, July 12, 2008

The Paris Girls Go To Venice


Sherry and Janet hit the Venice Canals


I met Janet in Paris in 2004. Since then we have socialized frequently, but only in Paris. When Janet called and said she was going to be in Venice, I hopped in my car for a visit.

Of course, she was in Venice, California, a short drive up the coast from Manhattan Beach.

So, this week, we got together for the first time ever in the US. We spent the day exploring Santa Monica, Venice and Manhattan Beach.

Here we are on the Venice canals, not quite as much fun as Italy, but still a great day.

See you in Paris this fall, Janet.

Sunday, June 29, 2008

The TV Tax, Public Television



The first time we received the bill for our TV tax, “Redevance Audiovisuelle”, I thought it was a joke or some kind of fraud. A brightly colored two-page form asking for Euro 116 because we own a TV? We called a friend who assured us that, yes, we have to pay this tax every year. We bought our TV at Darty. I bet they turned us in.

So, we paid the bill, not really knowing what it was for, thinking it is just another way for the French government to tax us.

Later on we learned that this tax allows the French state-owned TV channels to try to strike a better balance between culture and commerce. In other words, fewer commercials and perhaps programming that is more esoteric so that it doesn’t have to compete for ad dollars with more popular shows.

Of course, even though this seems complex, this is just the start of the issue.



Now, it seems that Sarkozy is proposing to ban all advertising on public channels by 2011. The plan will start to be realized in January with a ban on advertising after 8 PM.

If this proposal is approved by parliament, our TV tax will increase.

But the competing private broadcasters, and telecom/internet operators such as France Telecom would pay for the majority of this plan. So, if this happens, the private channels will be forced to subsidize their competitors.

And, don't forget that this is France. Employees from the public radio and television stations have already gone on strike to protest this change. The daily newspaper “Liberation” ran a front-page headline, “France Sarkovision”. It is widely thought that Sarkozy’s plan is really a propagandist strategy aimed at controlling the media. But, the culture minister, Christine Albanel says that these claims are absurd and that there are parliamentary checks in place.

It all boils down to "what's in it for me?" Maybe there will be more opera on TV. But, our taxes will go up. And I'm sure that the increased taxes paid by companies like France Telecom will be passed along to us too. So, we all end up paying for this, one way or another.

In the US, where we have no television tax and plenty of commercials, we also have recording devices that we can use to "zap" all the commercials. The advertising sponsors can pay for the programs, but I don't have to watch all those ads. We have been recording Wimbledon on our DVR. We probably fast-forward through four hours of commercials in a 10 hour broadcast. It does get a little annoying, but I'm not sure that Sarkozy has found the solution.

Sunday, June 22, 2008

Vehicular Worries



The Universal Little Green Man


In Paris I am always a little bit afraid of being hit by a car.

Pedestrians don't have the right-of-way and cars enforce this rule. Before I cross a street, even if the little green man is illuminated (the french/universal symbol for the "go" command), I swivel my head right, left, right, left to make sure a car isn't speeding in my direction.

In Manhattan Beach, it is a law that you stop your car for people in a crosswalk. You get a ticket if you don't obey this rule.

It is annoying when I am trying to run errands and a person steps into the crosswalk in front of my car, stares me down, and expects me to stop on a dime. Then, the person proceeds to walk, ever so slowly, across the street. Sometimes the person is eating something, which slows them down even more. But,the person doesn't worry that I won't stop.

I have never been worried about getting hit by a car on the beach though. In Florida, and I think in Texas, cars are allowed on the beach. But not in California.

So, back to my vehicular worries. I guess you can never be too careful!

Saturday, June 7, 2008

My Hero, Trader Joe's




Trader Joe's has come to the rescue.

I was shopping there a few days ago and took a look at their "foreign" wine section. I tend to do this in every grocery store these days and I always get a little homesick for my local Monoprix.

Well, in looking through the small French offering, I spotted this wine. "Hmmm, it's only $9.99 and if it tastes horrible, I can use it in a sauce, " I tell myself. So, I brought a bottle home.

We opened it that night and it was quite tasty.

A little bit of France was delivered to Manhattan Beach.

Thank you, Trader Joe's.

Thursday, June 5, 2008

Here's The Beach Today

He's Back!



I'm glad to see that Terry is finally on the mend. It's been two months, but he's finally getting back to his old self.

Here's the knee today.

Wednesday, June 4, 2008

We’ve Been Spoiled


I never thought about gas prices until very recently. I have a small car and drive very little.

Even when the news every night was about oil prices going up to $70 per barrel and then $80, it really didn’t concern me much.

But, when I fill up my tank now, it’s going to set me back around $60. It's starting to get scary.

We have a gas station just around the corner that has always had cheap gas. My friend Madeline told me that Cost Co gas is even cheaper. So, I decided on Saturday to go to Cost Co.

They didn’t have the gas prices posted, but I waited in the line, about 6 cars deep at all 10 pumps. I think that if we checked the “carbon footprint” directly over the 50-60 cars idling over the Cost Co pumps, we would be appalled.

I finally got to the pump and was very surprised to see that the price was $4.349 per gallon. I was hoping for a mere $4.20. But, I’d invested a lot in wasted time, so I filled my tank, which was only half empty (or half full for all the gas optimists).

Two days later, I drove by my cheap neighborhood station and the price is now $4.57 and heading toward $5.00.

We’ll all wish that we knew how to take the bus in LA pretty soon. Then, we’ll have to hope that the public transportation in LA is safe. I think it’s not, but we’ll all be finding out soon. Luckily, I’m a whiz at bus routes in Paris, so this should help out a little.

Friday, May 23, 2008

Good News on the Carte de Sejour

We've had to go back through the whole process again. Including getting new passports as the first step, since they were expiring.

Cost for the passports: $150

I made an appointment on-line with the French Consulate in LA then started collecting all the paperwork.

Free

We had to have photos taken. They are so cheap in France, they have booths on the street and in many metro stations to take passport photos, but here we had to go to a postal store. But, they look a little better than the ones from the booth, so that's some compensation.

4 photos $38

We had to get letters from the City of Manhattan Beach attesting to the fact that we have no police record.

Police clearance letters $270

Then, I had to compile tons of paperwork. Since we have a copier, I haven't included the cost, but I've made several hundred copies of the various required paperwork.

The requirement for copies differs with each item, so I made three of everything just to be safe.

We also need proof of health insurance in France. US health insurance and Medicare don't pay for medical costs in France. So I bought health insurance for the duration of our next trip, so we could have the proof of insurance.

Health Insurance $955

Then, we had the filing fee.

Filing fee for "dossier" $310

So, the cost to date for this little activity is $1723

We've learned our lesson, though and had every piece of paper ready. It seems like they always ask for something different. This time, they didn't want our birth certificates or marriage license.

Our only snag in the whole day was that some of the printouts from the on-line bank statements didn't have our name on them. We almost had to return with them the next day until I explained to the woman that there were enough statements with our names to make the financial guarantee. She seemed to buy this.

We were in the Consulate for two hours and had three appointments. With a lot of waiting time in between. I expected that they would send us away empty-handed, letting someone in a back office make the final determination at a later date (or after lunch), but on the third appointment, the man returned our passports with the new visas in them. So, we're set!

Look out Prefecture, here we come again!

Sunday, May 11, 2008

Grocery Shopping Etiquette and Procedures



Today as I was pushing a large cart loaded with provisions through my local Cost Co, I wished my French friends could see me now (glad they couldn’t, actually). I was wearing my gym clothes, a definite French no-no.

In the US, it’s true, our stores are super-sized, the portions are enormous and we buy in bulk. It’s easy to put it all in the back of the car and then into the garage until we need it. There are many bulky things, like toilet paper, paper towels and laundry soap that are always needed and it’s nice to have a supply.

The stores are so big and my car is so small compared with all the SUV’s, I sometimes forget where I’ve parked my car and have to walk up and down the aisles until I find it.

So, back to the etiquette of it all.

In the US as in France, each store or chain of stores has a little different feeling to it and different ways to handle things.

In France, for example, vegetables and fruit are handled differently in just about every store. My first regular grocery store in Paris was Champion on rue de Seine. Veggies and fruit are put into a bag (that part’s the same everywhere) and then you have to take the bags to a set of scales and weigh each bag. The scale produces a bar-coded tag that you have to put on the bag.

Thank goodness that in addition to the name of the item they had a photo of it, so I didn’t have to know all the words to buy things.

If you ever forget to put the sticker on the bag, you are sent scuttling back to the produce department with your bag while everyone else in line sneers at you.

The procedure is different at Monoprix, where you take the bags to a man who stands at the scales and weighs each item for you. After the man handles your bags, you have to make small talk with him or next time you come, he will ignore you. And, the procedure is different at the Franprix, where the cashier weighs it for you, just like in the US.

The biggest difference in the grocery store procedures has to do with the check out. In France, you have to bag your own groceries.

If you’re like me, using a chariot or wheeled cart, you have to put the heavy things (wine, water, juice, laundry soap) at the bottom of the cart. But, since I’ve been using the cart to collect the items, all the heaviest things start out on the bottom, hence they are the last out of the cart. The strategy here is to leave space at the front of the order and then put the heavy things there. Some checkers “get it” and put all the heavy things through first, some don’t.

So, the stress starts as you try to manage getting everything out of the cart at one end, putting it back in at the other end, without creating a big mess in the cart. You also have to pay.

There is usually a long line of people waiting for you, many with only two or three things. The GUILT! THE STRESS!

I’ve gotten over it by now.

There are stores in France that require a Euro to release the shopping cart from all the other carts. I guess this is to prevent theft. What happens if you don’t have a Euro! Tant pis! The checkers are very reluctant to give you change.

So, in the US, we need a special card for each store in order to get that store’s daily discount. For Cost Co, you can’t get in the door without the card. I’m sure all the stores use the cards to collect data about us, and one day it will all be published on the internet.

Here’s mine for today:
Wine 2 bottles
Chicken 2 packages
Zucchini .5 lb
Tomatoes .5 lb
Coffee 1 lb.

I wonder what they’ll do with this info, it’s not very revealing.

They have started arranging the US grocery stores a little differently. Now, they put all the snack food, alcohol, deli section in the front of the store and all the real food like meat, veggies, dairy in the very back of the store. Few people have to venture to the back when there’s the beer, chips, cheese and salami right there in front!

Of course, in the US, they still bag the groceries for us, but now they want us to bring our own bags. It's a good idea, but doesn't fit in with our car culture. I wonder why they don’t start selling carts like they have in France, it’s so much easier!

Oh, and the cashiers are friendly in the US!

Friday, May 9, 2008

Keeping WICE Alive

Wice has been a wonderful part of our lives in Paris. It is now threatened by lack of money as the Euro strengthens against the dollar and competition increases.

The French/English conversation groups have provided us with language experience, friendships and fun. At the end of the year, it will all be gone!

So, I've taken a little initiative. I wish I was in Paris, then I could really get into it. So far, I've located inexpensive rooms for rent in central Paris and a few people who are willing to help my cause. We'll see how it all plays out.

We're going to have to:
Communicate to everyone the new situation
Capture their names, phone numbers, email addresses
Locate the rooms and negotiate a deal
Determine the volunteers needed, how to collect money, etc

It's a big task, but it's worth it.

Wednesday, April 30, 2008

Down, But Not Out

It takes a lot to get rid of us, but the French government is doing its best.

Our "Carte de Sejour" were denied based on a technicality. So, we now have to go through the process of getting a new Visa (the first step of the process) from the Consulate in LA. While we thought this might be coming, it is still not good news.

Monday, April 28, 2008

We Have Our Holidays, Too!

We are normally in France in May. It's a great time of year to be in France except for all the holidays which seen to create a disruption every week of the month.

First there's the "vacances scolaires". Two weeks off for schools, associations, etc.during the last week in April extending into early May.

Then there's the "real" holidays. I count five. Last year, several fell on a Sunday. Unlike the US, where a Sunday holiday becomes either a Friday or Monday off, if the holiday falls on a Sunday in France there are no more days off. This is a little confusing and contradictory since if the holiday lands on a Thursday, many people take off Thursday through Sunday, maybe even starting the long weekend on Wednesday. This is called the "pont".

This year's May holidays are:

May 1 -- Ascencion and Labor Day
(so we've killed two birds with one stone)
May 8 -- WWII Victory Day
May 11 -- Pentecote
May 12 -- Whit Monday

Now to the US. When I was working for a large company, we only had six real holidays a year. New Year's Day, Memorial Day, Fourth of July, Thanksgiving (two days) and Christmas. We also got two "personal" days that we could use for taking time off for ML King Day, President's Day or other religious holidays.

I count 12 standard holidays for France, although some are under scrutiny like "Easter Monday".

So, in the US, the second holiday of the year happens at the end of May. This year it's Monday, May 26. The long weekend (three days) is the traditional summer kick off weekend. Normally, in Manhattan Beach, the weather is cool and overcast. We call it "June Gloom" and it lasts until our next big holiday, the 4th of July.

We also have a non-holiday that is celebrated, at least in the Western US -- Cinco de Mayo. This holiday is more about eating and drinking, I have no idea what the significance of the day is. But, I've been getting sales flyers, seeing ads in the newspaper for Cinco de Mayo sales, party ideas, things to buy.

Cinco de Mayo is on a Monday this year, so I'm sure all the celebrating will be on the 3rd or 4th. But, who cares! We haven't had a holiday since January 1st.

Sunday, April 27, 2008

The Carte de Sejour, Part II

It's never easy.

We have been waiting for the "final" answer from the Prefecture regarding our Carte de Sejour since March 5th. And, this whole project has been carried over from the Fall. We left France thinking that they'd send us their answer by mail.

Barbara, who watches our apartment while we're gone emailed us last week, saying that there have been a "flurry" of Avis de Lettre Recommande (french version of Certified Mail). She sent them to us so that we could figure out who wanted to send us something but wanted a signature.

From what we can figure out, two of these forms are from the Prefecture, meaning that this is the mail we've been waiting for concerning the "Carte". But, we need to sign before we can find out our fate.

A quick trip to the La Poste website clarified, however, it's not good news.

Evidently, what we should have done is called a "Procuration" and it involves leaving the name of the person who can sign for your items with the local post office. It must be done in person! We're still trying to figure this one out.

As an aside, the reason we don't get our mail re-directed from Paris is because La Poste is so disorganized. Twice, for two different trips, we went in, filled out forms (in person) to re-direct our mail and paid Euro 55. Not one piece of mail was forwarded each time, so we finally realized that they can't handle this. Both times they admitted their error and refunded the money!

Another "Lettre" seems to be from our Syndic. I wrote them a letter and included it with the Q2 check for our "homeowner's association dues" telling them to forward any critical mail to MB. They cashed the check so I know they got the letter. So, why they sent a "Lettre" to our Paris address vs. the requested MB address is another French mystery that will be solved at a later date.

So, we are stoically awaiting a second package sent by Barbara with more "Lettres". Evidently, many people want to get hold of us!

The next chapter of the "Carte" will surely follow after we get the mail sorted out.

Friday, April 25, 2008

Exchange Rate Woes

Is this another reason for Americans to stay home?

This week, the dollar hit an all-time low against the Euro, $1.60. This means that my coffee which is Euro 2.20 now costs me $3.52 and a baguette costs $1.36. We could starve this way.

Forget about home improvements, and new kitchen gadgets! Dinner in a simple restaurant can now cost $150! A movie (normally more expensive than in the US) is $32.

Pretty soon, we'll be turning out the lights from 10 PM to 7 AM.

Luckily there are free concerts all over Paris and many gardens to visit. Museums are free the first Sunday of the month and several museums (including two of my favorites, the Cluny and the Guimet) are free until summer.

Retour in September


Part of living in two places is adjusting to change. This is a good lesson for me and a difficult one to master.

Does attitude come before action or the reverse? I guess it depends on the situation.

Right now, we're in Manhattan Beach and will be here until September.

So for the next few months I will enjoy good weather, driving my cute blue car, speaking English (!), getting some Spring cleaning done, seeing family and friends.

And I will miss french conversation with my friends and the great people at WICE. My french language skills have already started to suffer (as if they weren't bad enough already).

I've substituted Target for Monoprix, chicken breasts for oiseaux sans tete, California red for Bordeaux, The Strand for the Luxembourg Gardens, Savior Faire for WICE.

I'm still counting the days until our retour.